Uncategorized

The Incredible Costumes from Film Noir

When you hear the words, Film Noir what actresses immediately come into mind? Joan Crawford? Barbara Stanwyck? Joan Bennett? Ingrid Bergman? Ida Lupino? Gloria Grahame? Gene Tierney? Lizbeth Scott? Jean Simmons? Lauren Bacall? I’m sure at least one of these actresses is familiar to you. When you think of Film Noir fashion, these women are true icons! In this episode, we will look at some of the incredible garments worn by these women in this dark and moody genre.

Before I get started, for those who aren’t familiar with Film Noir, I wanted to give a brief overview of what it is and point out that Film Noir wasn’t just popular during the 1940s; there are many incredible movies in the 1950s as well. 

What is Film Noir?

Film Noir is a style of Hollywood crime drama that emphasizes cynical attitudes and motivations. The 1940s and 1950s are generally regarded as the “classic period” of American Film Noir. Film Noir of this era is associated with a low-key, black-and-white visual style that has roots in German expressionist cinematography. Many of the prototypical stories and attitudes expressed in classic noir derive from the hardboiled school of crime fiction that emerged in the United States during the Great Depression, known as noir fiction. (Wikipedia)

As I mentioned in my intro, some actresses immediately come to mind when you think of Film Noir. However, so many more talented women graced the big screen. Unfortunately, I won’t have time to show you the wonderful wardrobes of all of them; rather, I am going to focus on a few actresses and particular movies.

Barbara Stanwyck

First up, I am starting with who I consider the Queen of Film Noir, Barbara Stanwyck. 

Barbara is most likely best known for her sassy characters in pre-code movies such as Baby Face, but she is also an iconic Film Noir actress. The movie wardrobe I am going to focus on today is from the movie Double Indemnity. The one and only Edith Head styled Barbara’s wardrobe.

Though colourized, this poster also shows her sexy style. The turtle neck with the A-line skirt! Classic!

Next up is this fun frilly number! I love that the frill is the centre piece of the dress.

Then we have the iconic little black dress. These are often seen in noir, although the term “little black dress” gained more fame in the 1950s due to Audrey Hepburn.

And the blouses, we can’t forget the blouses! I love the tropical print.

Ida Lupino

Next, I want to talk about the prolific Ida Lupino. She was the absolute trifecta of Hollywood talent. She was an actress, Director, and Writer. Ida is an inspiration to me on so many levels. Her wardrobe in the 1941 classic High Sierra is simple and wonderful. It’s a mix of blouses, trousers, a classic coat, and of course… frills! Milo Anderson styled Ida’s wardrobe

I want to start off with blouses. When we think of women’s clothing from the 1940s, we immediately visualize those big, boxy shoulders. Especially on suit jackets and coats. That look didn’t emerge until the mid-1940s. At the beginning of the 1940s, styles were still transitioning from the 1930s with a softer look. Slightly puffy shoulders and more romantic styles. High Sierra was made in 1941, so we are still seeing that late 1930s influence.

Trousers are also very present in this movie. I love me a good 1940s wide-legged trouser.

The most iconic piece of wardrobe for me is the coat! I love that wide collar and the tie belt!

Ingrid Bergman

We can’t talk about Film Noir without mentioning the movie Casablanca and, of course, Ingrid Bergman!

The piece that stands out the most in this movie is the hat!

The classic 2-piece suit is also an iconic look in this movie and many Film Noir movies.

Of course, I also need to talk about this pinafore-style dress. I’m not sure if it is one or two pieces, but look how lovely the stripes and plain colour dress work together.

Gene Tierney

I have such a soft spot for the movie Laura (1944). Not just because it stars Gene Tierney, but also because it stars my favourite ghoul, Vincent Price. This movie has an incredible cast, including Clifton Webb and Dana Andrews. However, this is about Gene.

One of my favourite wardrobe pieces in this movie is the dresses. They are romantic, floaty, and sexy without being over the top. Designer Bonnie Cashin did an incredible job dressing the character Laura.

Joan Crawford

As we begin to round out Film Noir of the 1940s, we have to chat about an actress who had covered many genres by the time the 1940s rolled around, including Silent Cinema and Pre-code. I am, of course, talking about the incredible Joan Crawford!

She starred in many Film Noir, but the wardrobe that stands out for me is from the movie Mildred Pierce (1945)! Once again, we see Milo Anderson as the costume designer.

Throughout this entire movie, you see that famous silhouette, the large shoulders! Of all actresses, Joan Crawford wore it best!

I am going to show you a few of my favourite pieces from the movie, including this polkadot number.



Marie Windsor

I am going to end this with one of my favourite noirs from the 1950s. I know! Some of you are likely yelling, What about Lauren Bacall, Lizbeth Scott, Jean Simmons, and Gloria Grahame, plus the very long list of other actresses! I would love to chat about them, too, but this video would be too long. If you want a second part, let me know, and I will do more.

One of my favourite actresses from the 1950s is the very sexy Marie Windsor. If one of her movies is on, no matter when it starts, I will watch it. For this episode, we will talk about the 1956 movie, The Killing. The wardrobe was skillfully done by designer Jack Masters
One thing that the 1950s did well was lingerie. Lower-budget movies, like many noirs, have some of the most desirable, flowing pieces I’ve ever seen. Marie Windsor also wears it well!

I hope you enjoyed my latest episode! If you did, please give me a thumbs up, subscribe, and let me know your favourite Film Noir movie or costume!

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Carnival of Souls, Candace Hilligoss, and the Costuming

It’s starting to feel a lot like Halloween! When this time of the year rolls around, I begin to ramp up on my watching time for scary and spooky movies. I love kicking off the season with two of my favorites. Carrie and Carnival of Souls. In this video, I’m going to talk a little bit about the movie as well as the wonderful costuming that gives it that extra little eeriness. If you want to find out more, watch this video. 

Halloween is creeping up on us. I look forward to this time of year and eagerly anticipate the crispness of the air and the crunch of fallen leaves. To some, this signifies the end of the year, but for me, it feels like a beginning. I await the shorter days and longer nights and, of course, sweater weather! I am an Autumn girl.

As I mentioned in the opening, when this time of year rolls around, I start ramping up my watch time of spooky movies. Whether they are horror, suspense, or beautiful ghost stories. Carrie is my first go-to to and then Carnival of Souls is next. I also want to mention that for my birthday, a good friend gifted me a signed copy of Candace Hilligoss’ promotional shot from the movie!

In this video, I am going to chat about the movie, the costuming, and of course, Candace Hilligoss.

To start, let me tell you what the movie is about. Also, you really need to watch this movie. It has become a cult classic and is an inspiration to many filmmakers, such as Wes Craven and Martin Scorsese, and horror enthusiasts. 

Carnival of Souls was released in 1962 and can be best described as a psychological horror film. It is incredibly creepy. I am going to talk a wee bit about the plot of the movie here. I won’t give too much away, especially if you want to watch it. There are copies of it on YouTube and Tubi. On Tubi, there is both a black and white version and a colour version. The original movie was made in black and white, and I recommend you watch that version. The director Herk Harvey uses light and shadow to create the atmosphere, and you lose that in the colour version.

In this movie, Candace Hilligoss plays Mary Henry. Mary somehow walks away from a fatal car crash. This drives her to want to start life over again, including moving to another state. Mary is a very talented organist and finds work at a local church. While living in a rooming house, she not only has to deal with her creepy and inappropriate neighbour (the fabulous Sidney Berger), but she also begins having terrifying dreams and visions of a nearby, abandoned carnival. 

I personally feel that Candace executes the role of Mary incredibly. You can feel her pain and isolation. 

I’m going to leave the movie plot here. Please go watch it. 

Before I talk about who Candace Hilligoss is, I want to get to the costuming first. It truly adds a lot of layers to the story and the visuals of this movie. 

Carnival of Souls was a low-budget movie. They only had a budget of 33,000 dollars and even in 1962, that wasn’t very much money to work with. We’ve seen this in many other movies, including those by director Roger Corman. In many instances, actresses would use their own clothes. There hasn’t been anything that I could find that it was the case here as well. 
The director Herk Harvey was not only the director and producer, but he also had a hand in the costume design. In order to stay within budget, all of the costumes were very simple. You will even see this with the ghouls. They were dressed in the clothing of the time, including Mary’s clothing. 

Mary wears very simple, classic shapes, including a few shirtwaist dresses, a sweater set and a gathered skirt. Very easy to wear pieces that work for her character. 

The actors playing the ghouls were portrayed by local theatre students from the University of Kansas. They all supplied their own costumes that were also basics. Leotards, skirts, and trousers. Being theatre students, they also did their own make-up. They truly captured the look of the ghouls. The main ghoul was dressed in a simple suit with a tie and a white shirt. Giving a funerary feel to it.

So… back on my capsule wardrobe kick. Mary’s outfits from this movie would make a great basis for one. 

Speaking of Mary! Let’s talk about the actress who played her, Candace Hilligoss. 

I am currently reading her biography,  The Odyssey and The Idiocy, Marriage to an Actor, A Memoir. I wasn’t sure how good it would be, but it’s actually a fun read and has some really humorous moments. 

Mary Candace Hilligoss was born on August 14, 1935, in South Dakota. After completing university, like so many other actors, she made her way to New York City to begin a career in theatre. She studied at the Actors Studio and worked with Sanford Meisner and Lee Strasberg. 

Before becoming an actor, Candace was also a model. 

Candace didn’t end up in that many movies. After Carnival of Souls, she was in another horror movie called The Curse of the Living. We will be showing this in November at our monthly movie series, Killer B Cinema. 

She also had small roles in a few TV shows, including Quincy M.E.

Her acting career wasn’t long, but she became a cult movie figure.

Candace went on to marry Nicolas Coster and have two daughters with him, and this marriage is the theme of her memoir.

Candace has her own website! www.candacehilligoss.com.

I hope you enjoyed my little kick-off to Halloween season! Let me know if you are going to watch this movie or if you’ve seen it before. Also, let me know what you do to kick off Halloween!

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1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, classics, independent, movies, pre-code, rep theatre, silent films, silent movies, Uncategorized, vintage

Why Rep Theatres Are Important To The Vintage Culture and Community

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I am a huge, HUGE classic movie nerd. Especially Silent Movies, Pre-code movies and 1950s Sci-fi. As a child, many Saturday mornings were filled with watching these movies and I have many fond memories of Saturday Night at the Movies with Elwy Yost. I grew up loving black and white classic cinema. Living in Toronto I am beyond fortunate that there are rep theatres that still show these movies on the regular or have themed movie afternoons/evenings. My fella and I have become regulars at the 4 pm Sunday show at the Carlton. $6 gets you a movie, popcorn, and a drink. Each month is themed. We are also a stone throw from The Revue and are found there often, especially during the Toronto Silent Film Festival. Why do I think these types of theatres are important, let me tell you.

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History. The history of the theatre and the history that comes along with the movies that are shown. Sadly, with the condo boom, many of Toronto’s beloved architecture, including old movie houses are being torn down. I don’t want to make this piece about that, I do want to raise how important it is to keep some of old Toronto still alive and intact. This includes our original movie theatres. There is so much incredible history in these buildings. Imagine the movies that were shown in these beautiful structures. Everything from The Silents of the early 1900s to the gritty movies of the 1970s. The people that would have walked across the thresholds. Buildings that allowed you to take refuge from the heat, the cold, the depression, the war or the general world outside. A place where you could escape to another world via celluloid. I often dream of being a child, jaw open while being mesmerized by a Silent Film, a sassy teen being inspired by the Flappers gracing the screen or a twenty-something being tantalized by a Pre-code bit of raunch. Witnessing a time in history and film-making when the creators cared about the story and the presentation.

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An escape. The world we live in is a harsh place to be in. It’s equally complicated by the all too convenient ability to pull out your phone to see or read the news, check social media, watch hours of youtube or stream whatever content you want and almost never be left to use your imagination if even for a short period of time. It’s why I write in complete silence. Going to a movie theatre, where you have to put your phone away is a wonderful feeling. To spend one to two hours being swept into another world, another time. To see films about a period of history, shot during that actual time. The music, clothes, sets — the story. Is it wrong that I still have crushes on Jimmy Stewart or Clara Bow?

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Most importantly, supporting independent businesses. Most of these theatres are independently owned. I would much rather support independent or family-owned businesses. I don’t only go to rep theatres to see the classics, I would much rather see the latest blockbuster in them. Yes, it means waiting a few extra weeks to see it, but if it means the money is going to a small business, I will wait.

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Please, check out your local rep theatre. The more we frequent them, the longer they stay alive.

MOVIE THEATRES :

Bloor Hot Docs Cinema (The Annex) – 506 Bloor Street West, Toronto 416-637-3123 — http://www.hotdocscinema.ca/

Carlton Cinema – 20 Carlton Street at Yonge, Toronto, 416 – 494-9371 — https://imaginecinemas.com/cinema/carlton-cinema/

Fox Theatre – 2236 Queen Street East, Toronto, 416-691-7330 — www.foxtheatre.ca

Humber Cinemas – 2442 Bloor Street West — http://www.humbercinemas.com/

Kingsway – 3030 Bloor Street West — http://kingswaymovies.ca/

Regent Theatre – 551 Mount Pleasant Road — http://regenttoronto.com/

Revue Cinema  – 400 Roncesvalles Avenue, Toronto, ON, Canada M6R 2M9 — http://revuecinema.ca/

Royal Cinema – 608 College Street, Toronto, 416-466-4400 — www.theroyal.to

1920s, classics, movies, silent cinema, silent films, silent movies, Uncategorized

Silent Cinema

As a child, I would spend hours watching silent movies. I was also that same child who not only wanted to be a flapper but insisted that her mother dress her like one. Fritzi Kramer runs a site called Movies Silently. You will always find incredibly informative posts about Silent Cinema from all over the world and because of Movies Silently, I have discovered silent movies I had never seen. I’m so thankful that so many silents have been preserved.

The queen of Egypt loves her Romans and so she falls for Mark Antony… What? You mean you know this one? Well, anyway, we’re looking over one of the very first feature-length Cleos with Helen Gardner in the title role. Home Media Availability: Released on DVD. Taking command A quick note before getting started. This…

via Cleopatra (1912) A Silent Film Review — Movies Silently

1920s, 1930s, classics, joan crawford, movies, old hollywood, silent films, silent movies, vintage

Silent Movies Are Good For the Soul

Ever since I can recall, I’ve wanted to be a Flapper and even to the point, as a young child I would often ask my mother to dress me like one. In my early days of high school, I would mix styles of punk, Edwardian and Flapper. A look that made a fourteen-year-old stick out in the hallways, clashing with her fellow, small town, plaid wearing classmates. I would be seen wandering the halls with books on ghosts and a notebook to write in.  When I was home, I would either be in my room writing, doing art, or sewing or watching classic movies, especially silents. No one understood why I would want to do this, no one really got me. Why would a teenager, be so intrigued by silent movies or prefer reading the 1927 Eaton’s Spring and Summer catalogue replica she inherited from her grandfather? Shouldn’t she be out running amok in the streets or listening to that rock and/or roll music?

 

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At some point in grade ten, my love of German Expressionist film started. Unfortunately, being in a small town, my only options for silent movies was TVO or rentals. At that time I didn’t have a huge selection and unlike here in Toronto, our public library didn’t have a huge selection of rentals. I was able to get my hands on Metropolis and Nosferatu from our local rental place. I watched both of these movies so many times, I could have shadowcast them. When I moved away from that small town and to Toronto, my world opened up. Not only did I have access to places like the Toronto Reference Library and Blockbuster, but there were groups and organizations that also loved silent movies. Pre-Facebook (yes there was a time before Facebook) I was able to find meet-ups via the classifieds in Now Magazine or posters, found on the telephone poles along Queen street.

My fourteen-year-old self would be beside herself today if she had those options. Social media has helped bring together large groups of silent film aficionados and like-minded, dames and fellas. Every April in Toronto, there is a Silent Film Festival. Sadly, I’m not able to see all of the movies at the festival (if only there was more time), but my dream is to one day get a pass and see every — single — one. This year we were able to see some ‘found’ movies and serials such as Sherlock Holmes, a Buster Keaton short and the 2nd reel from an epic pie fight brought to you by Laurel and Hardy called ‘The Battle of the Century’. It truly was the greatest pie fight in history.  I have included a YouTube video below of a shorter version of the video. If you can, you should see the restored longer version.  Side note: at 3:22 mark, I still drool over how stunning the outfit, worn by the woman who lands fanny first on a pie. I’m so glad her dress missed the pie!

I have an ever growing collection of silent movies on DVD. I fantasize often about owning a projector and film on reels, but due to the condition of most original silent films, this may remain a fantasy and a whole other blog post. Fortunately for me, a streaming service called FilmOn has a silent film and classic movie channel. I have discovered films I’ve never seen and also get to re-watch and fall in love again with, old favourites. I will never grow weary of watching the Barrymores, Buster Keaton, Harold Lloyd, Clara Bow, Mary Pickford, Errol Flynn, Valentino or Joan Crawford. Joan Crawford you say? Absolutely.  She got her start, on the big screen, in the silents. There is something so delightful in watching her in Our Dancing Daughters.

As I continue to watch silents, I am finding new favourites. Recenty I watched ‘The Married Virgin (1918) – Rudolph Valentino. As soon as Valentino walks into a scene, you can see why women swooned over him. As I watch Valentino and other stars like Clara Bow, Jean Harlow and Joan Crawford, I often wonder what it would have been like to have been alive in the 1920s and 1930s. It would have been incredible to see these movies, for the first time, in the cinemas of those eras. We are fortunate for festivals such of The Toronto Silent Film festival, but if I could hop into a time-machine, I would set the dial to that era.

What are your favourite silent films?

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