1940s, 1945, pants, sewing, slacks, trousers, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

1940s Trousers And The Journey To Get The Right Fit: Toile #2, the wearable version

How much fiddling can a sewist fiddle… before she LOSES HER MIND! I have come to realize that I’m someone who visualizes how something should look in her head and when the thing I’m making doesn’t look exactly like it… I will fiddle with it, until I’m ready to scream. This has been the last two weeks of my trouser adventure. Why, oh why do I do this to myself. I know I’m not alone here. Raise your hand. Come on! Gett’em up!

I raised the waist. I put it back to where it was. I raised the waist. I put it back to where it was. Then I finally talked myself into leaving it where the pattern has it sitting. Why? I’m hight waisted and realized if I put the waist where my current waist is… it will not be flattering. I’m on a weight loss journey and as I do, my waistline will also lower.

I found the pant legs to be way too wide for me. I took 2″ out of the bottom and tapered them up to the knee.

The pattern I chose for this journey is a 1945 Trouser Set B, that I found on Etsy from Eva Dress. I purchased the PDF version of the pattern. The pattern is originally by Vogue (9016), (“Easy to Make”) ‘Slacks with built-up or regulation waist line and choice of long or below-knee length. As the pattern suggests the pattern is incredibly easy to make, how ever you will need to make fit adjustments for the modern figure. I know I have to.

Then…. after more fiddling I was finally happy with the toile. A happy outcome, was I’d lost more weight and the I had to take the toile in. Now happy with it, I cut out the pants. I wasn’t able to make them right away and would wait a week to sew them. Then sew day came…. and I’d clearly lost a few more pounds in the week I waited… because they were slightly too big. I took another inch out to the waist and 2 inches out of the hips and reduced the width of the legs even more.

For the next rendition of these trousers, I am going to use the original pattern. I had to size up from it and now thing the original size will fit me now.

Am I 100% happy with the trousers? Not yet. I’m going to be trying several different styles over the next few months to see what works. It’s my goal to get the perfect fit for the body I have. The next one I am working on is the Loretta shorts. I’m modifying them to be pants. Stay tuned. They will be next.

1940s, 1945, pants, sewing, slacks, trousers, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

1940s Trousers And The Journey To Get The Right Fit: Toile #1

Trousers, Pants, Slacks or what ever you wish to call them, have been my nemesis in my later adult years. I haven’t owned a pair in 10+ years and to be honest I swore I was never going to own a pair again. As per my previous post, there are a lot of things I hate about modern pants, including the fit and how short the rise is. I’m a high waisted, curvy girl! That just isn’t going to do. As I have with all of my current wardrobe, it I want it to fit, I have to make it myself. So why have I changed my mind? A few reasons.

  1. I live in Canada and winters get hella cold here. COLD! FREEZING! WINDCHILL! I usually wear thick tights under my dresses and skirts, but the wind still gets up there.
  2. I love the way 1930s/1940s/1950s pants look.
  3. Vintage trousers fit. The waist is where is SHOULD be. I will always need to to resize them, because I don’t have a 26″ waist or 40″ hips, but with all vintage patterns I’ve redrafted, the fit is always spot on, when I do.
  4. I follow quite a few curvy ladies on Instagram who have made their own trousers and they are rocking them! One of the ladies is Bex Huland! She looks incredible in the 1940s trousers she made and it has inspired me!

The pattern I chose for this journey is a 1945 Trouser Set B, that I found on Etsy from Eva Dress. I purchased the PDF version of the pattern. The pattern is originally by Vogue (9016), (“Easy to Make”) ‘Slacks with built-up or regulation waist line and choice of long or below-knee length. As the pattern suggests the pattern is incredibly easy to make, how ever you will need to make fit adjustments for the modern figure. I know I have to.

So, where do we start? With a toile. We always start with a toile. Every thing I sew I make one. I wish I could just sew straight from the original pattern, but that will never happen. Plus, I have some pretty sweet fabric for my first pair of trousers and there is no way in hell, I’m cutting into it until I get the fit right.

Toile #1

There will eventually be more pictures of me wearing toiles. At the moment I have no way of taking those photos.

There are going to be a few toiles, so be prepared! This first one was ok. When I redrafted it, I almost got the measurements right. I was off, ever so slightly. When I did the sit test, I found them a little snug across the front. I don’t want it baggy either, but if I have to sit for a long time, I would like it a bit looser. Also, it will be a bit more flattering on the tummy area. A few other things I need to change is the rise needs to be at least 1 to 2″ higher, I don’t like the side snaps and the legs from the knees down are way too wide. I also hate the front darts. They aren’t flattering and draw too much attention to my belly.

After making several notes, I decided to search Instagram to see who else may have made these trousers and I remembered that Bex had made a similar pair (hers are 1940s). I looked at a few of her posts and voila, she had the exact same fit issues/change ideas I did AND added a back zipper. The back zipper solved the side button issue! With her trousers, she did add pockets. For now I am going to concentrate on fit. At some point down the road, I will work on adding pocket.

Bex also has a couple blog posts about the trousers she made (here) and (here), as well as how she removed the front darts. Please check them out!

I’m going to be doing a separate blog post for each toile I make and a blog post for the finished pair (with actual photos of me wearing them). These next several months are going to be about trousers. I will be trying out different patterns and styles and working on the perfect fit for all! Oh did I mention, I’m also going to be making shorts… that’s going to be a whole other set of blog posts! I hope you will come along for the journey!

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, 1960s, crochet, crochet-a-long, killer kitsch sew-a-long, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, sew-a-long, sewing, spring, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage crochet, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Spring Has Almost Sprung!

It’s time to announce what our March/April SAL/KAL/CAL will be! It is SPRING! From March 1 to April 30th, show us your Spring sewing, knitting and crochet projects! Here are some photos for inspiration!

As always if you post on Instagram, please tag us at @killerkitsch13 and use one of the following hashtags. #killerkitschsewalong#killerkitschknitalong#killerkitschcrochetalong

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, crochet, crochet pattern, crochet-a-long, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, sew-a-long, sewing, vintage crochet, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage sewing

Knitting yourself into an injury!

PSA from the girl who can’t knit/crochet or sew (it hurts to cut fabric) for the next 4 to 6 weeks. I learned a hard lesson and need to share it with all of you. 😔 

I am someone who would, without realizing it, knit for hours at a time. It wouldn’t be until my digits or wrists got tired, would I realize how long I had been knitting. Then, I noticed my thumb started to get stiff in the morning (when I woke up), then sore and hard to straighten out right away (I would need to stretch it)… now it hurts to bend. Two weeks ago I stopped knitting to see if that would help, but it didn’t. I went to the doctor and I have tendonitis and it will take 4 to 6 weeks to heal fully. I’m frustrated because I can’t knit, crochet or sew and I have to be patient. Not being able to at least knit is making me antsy!

Many times I read how important resting and stretching was, but I didn’t heed this information thinking I would be fine. Don’t be like me! Take lots of breaks and stretch your hands before, during and after knitting/crochet. It will save you from injuring your digits or wrists. Here are the stretches and strengthening excises I’ve been doing. https://www.healthline.com/health/de-quervains-tenosynovitis-exercises?fbclid=IwAR0Bf34cj0-MF4o52hHbHHShFBv9_99NIfvu6sCJm7v2T3tr1pUN2VF6f-o#thumb-lifts

On the positive side, I’m hoping it is healed up in time for the next KAL/SAL and for my winter cardigan knitting plans. Unfortunately, I can’t even sew ATM because even cutting out fabric is hurting my thumb. I’ve missed out on the Beach PJ SAL and possibly the Betty dress SAL. 😔 
Do yourself a favour and take care of your hands!

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, sew-a-long, sewing, summer, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Summer-a-long Outfit Complete!

If you’ve been following along on my Instagram account @killerkitsch13 you will be seeing posts about our current sew-a-long (or see this post). I decided to make an outfit inspired by the below 1940s photograph. Everything I made was self-drafted.

With this SAL I did a bit of an experiment. I bulk cut and then bulk sewed garments. Because of this I was able to sew 2 skirts and 3 tops. Next week I am going to spend my sewing time drafting patterns for the rest of the things I want to make for my summer wardrobe.

{The photos of myself below I am wearing a slightly different top. I made two white tops to go with the gathered skirt.}

There is still time to join the sew-a-long. Hop on over to our Facebook group. (https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintagewips/). 

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, crochet, crochet pattern, crochet-a-long, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, sew-a-long, sewing, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage crochet, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

52 Outfits in 52 Weeks! Update!

Did she do it? Did she succeed in her 52 garment in 52 weeks challenge? Well…. almost.

How many garments have I made so far? Since July 1st, 2018, I have made 45 garments for myself. On top of that, I’ve made 3 sweaters for my husband and several hats/scarves and a purse for myself (approx. 49 pieces including those). (I have also made many hats and scarves as gifts to others as well) OH and I should mention I made all these from either vintage patterns, self-drafted the patterns myself (I learned how to draft patterns in High School. Thank you Mrs. Hewitt) or made them from vintage reproduction patterns. My memade wardrobe is all vintage reproduction.

I’m proud of this. It’s been a lot of hard work, but I love it because it is another way to stretch my creativity! My goal is that most of my wardrobe is memade, with a small percentage of it from thrifting or clothing swaps. I’m getting there! The extra bonus of making my own clothing, they fit properly!!!

To help keep me motivated, I created groups and we have knit-a-longs, sew-a-longs, crochet-a-longs, and refashion-a-longs. These groups are my happy place!

Where does my original inspiration come from? My Mother is my sewing inspiration. She taught me how to sew when…. I think it was ten-years-old — she says I was younger than that. I learned how to sew on a Treadle sewing machine (My Great Grandma Brown’s (made in 1898)) that I now own. My Mom also made her own and all of our clothing (when we were kids), without patterns. That’s right folks, wanting to self-draft my own patterns vs using premade patterns is in the blood!

I’m incredibly happy with my achievement this year. Even after sewing for decades I am still learning new skills. That brings me to my new goal. Starting August 1st I am going to begin using Draft-at-home systems. I have quite a few that include Haslam, Mrs. Depew and many others. I’ve done a blog post on it, it you want to give it a gander! https://killerkitschdesigns.com/2019/03/13/draft-at-home-systems/

In the meantime, I’m off to sew!

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, circle skirt, sewing, skirt, spring, summer, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Vintage Sew-a-long: The Circle Skirt

I need to get a move on and make my spring and summer garments, but somehow, for some reason, something keeps distracting me! I need to find my motivation again. I noticed that as soon as I started the Killer Kitsch Designs Vintage Knit-a-long last year, I became extremely motivated to knit as many garments as I could. Before I would occasionally knit something for myself, but generally I was knitting for others. I realized it was time to fill up my wardrobe with knits from all of the vintage patterns I’ve been collecting. Now… how do I do the same for sewing.

536f78dc4b50348fc9f1e1b688aafa6d--skirt-sewing-circle-skirts

My sewing machine has been calling to me.

My sewing machine is now yelling at me!

1955-circle-skirts-felt-poodle-343x500

January 1st, 2017 I made a promise to myself to only purchase vintage, thrifted items or make my own clothes. As a curvy girl I was tired of always being frustrated by off the rack clothes and as a consumer, I was upset about the shoddy quality of anything I purchased from retail stores. As a lover of movies from the 1920s, 30s, and 40s I realized we needed to take a step back to a time where you actually cared about the quality of your clothes and when you couldn’t buy something, you refashioned or mended and made due!

Now… how do I get back my sewing mojo? By starting vintage sew-a-longs.

9233e87bbe6dd92c3861d0029936e77f--vintage-skirt-vintage-hats

I’m by no means someone who can give instructions on sewing. I’m not a trained sewist and have learned sewing from my Mother, home ec and years of creating my own garments. These sew-a-longs aren’t tutorials in any way. What they are, is a group of like-minded sewists, creating vintage-inspired outfits together. The sew-a-longs will range from easy (like the circle skirt) to a bit more challenging, just like the knit-a-longs.

circle

I have always loved sewing. When I was a kid I would design and hand sew outfits for dolls. I learned how to sew garments on my great grandmother’s Raymond Treadle machine (1898), alongside my mother. (I’ve since inherited the machine) I was inspired to learn sewing because my mother used to make all of our clothes. On Instagram, I follow many vintage accounts and their dedication to remaking vintage patterns is what has motivated me to start sew-a-longs. 

il_570xN.438586569_jp80

If this is something you also want to do, please join our group on Facebook. If you share your photos on Instagram, please tag me @killerkitsch13 and use hashtag #killerkitschvintagesewalong.

mc-1541-500-circle-skirt-image-5001
We are starting on May 16th and will do the sew-a-long for the last two weeks of May!

This will be a super easy skirt to sew, so if you are a beginner, this will be perfect for you. Everyone is welcome to join!

poodle-8

 

Resources that will hopefully help you out during the circle skirt sew-a-long.

Circle Skirt Calculators
Circle Skirt Templates and Tutorials
YouTube Tutorials Playlist
PDF of a circle skirt template
1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, jumper, knitting, knitting community, summer, sweater, Uncategorized, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage style

Sale!

Hello lovely vintage dames and fellas!  I wanted to let you know that I’m having a sale in my Etsy store (https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/KillerKitschDesigns). With Summer just around the corner, I know you are all working on your summer knits. I have put all short-sleeved downloadable patterns on sale for 50% off!  The sale will be on until April 30th!

Here is a sneak peek at some of the patterns on sale! There are many more!

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, Facebook Group, free knitting pattern, free pattern, jumper, KAL, killer kitsch, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, online store, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage style

New Knit-A-Long announced!

Since Spring weather is right around the corner, we have decided to have spring/summer patterns for our next Knit-a-long (KAL). Going forward we are going to have a theme for most of our KALs. The next KAL (July 1 to September 30th) will be an Agatha Christie themed KAL.

This knit-a-long will run from April 1st to June 30th and during the knit-a-long you are welcome to knit one or all of the patterns. I will provide the patterns to you for free and they will be available in our Facebook Group. (Please do not share the patterns as they come from either my store or a private collection.) In the future we will also be looking for other vintage knitting pattern businesses to sponsor our KALs.

I have posted the patterns in our group prior to the KAL to give you a chance to buy your yarn. Please hold off starting this KAL until April 1st, so we can all start together. Trust me, even I am having itchy start knitting the patterns now fingers.

apr-juneKAL

Please post your progress photos and finished jumpers photos in the group and on Instagram. We will have a progress thread already set up for you.

When you post on Instagram please tag me and use hashtag #killerkitschknitalong. During the knit-a-long I will be reposting your photos in my Instagram and/or adding them to the photos in the group.

I hope everyone is as excited as I am for this next knit-a-long. The last ones have been incredibly fun and all the jumpers beautiful! Don’t worry if you are still working on your jumper from our other KALs, please keep posting about them. We want to see your beautiful work.

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, Facebook Group, KAL, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, ravelry, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage style

First Vintage KAL of 2018

Our first KAL of 2018 is off to an amazing start. Our Facebook group and Instagram are lighting up with progress photos and questions. I am super happy how much everyone is loving the sweaters we choose for this Vintage KAL and our last one. The 1938  two colour jumper, the 1937 cable jumper and 1950s bed jacket colour combinations were so incredible!  Now the colours being chosen for the 1940s Champion Jumper and the 1950s Blouse, beyond amazing!  Many people are already done the front of the Champion Jumper. It is DK (double knit weight) so I’m not surprised.

Here are some progress photos so far.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

To see all the details for the new KAL, please click here  and it will take you to a previous post!