1940s – Killer Kitsch Designs

1940s, 1950s, bobby soxers, jane russell, jayne mansfield, lana turner, marilyn monroe, sweater girl

Rebellious Fashion: The Sweater Girls

September 26, 2025September 17, 2025 Lizzie Violet

When you hear the word sweater girl your mind might automatically go to Marilyn Monroe or the many curvaceous women of the 1950s. However, the term sweater girl and the fashion itself started long before that. If you want to find out more about the origins of the sweater girl, watch this video.

It’s the mid-1940s, and the world is at war. Many young men are off to fight the biggest battle of their lives and are likely away from home for the very first time. They’re also incredibly stressed out. During this time, women’s fashion was also changing drastically, and one of those changes was the sexy, tight-fitting sweater. Not only was this a way for women to show off their curves, but the sweater girl also became a symbol of World War II and a way to help distract men from their daily lives as soldiers. That isn’t when the sweater girl trend began. It actually started much earlier than that, and the original model for the sweater girls was not Marilyn Monroe, as many people believe.

To learn the origins of where the sweater girl started, we need to go back to the year 1937. Before we dive into the history, let’s just talk a little bit about what exactly a sweater girl is.

The sweater girl was a 1940s and 1950s fashion trend that originally was very popular amongst Hollywood actresses, and as with a lot of fashion trends, young women started to emulate the way that these actresses looked. For many, it was a way to express their sexuality in a time when women were still supposed to look a certain way. That style itself was also very controversial, as many would say that women dressing in such a sexy way was showing society’s moral decline. When in fact this was giving women a sense of empowerment, and of course, many didn’t like that.

To add to the sexiness of the very fitted sweater, it was often worn with bullet bras and either pencil skirts or capris, or other tighter-fitting pants. You even see photos of women wearing tight-fitting sweaters with shorts.

Let’s get into the history of the origins of the term sweater girl.

It’s said that the original actress who encapsulated the ultimate sweater girl was Lana Turner. She was dubbed sweater girl in 1937 after appearing in a very sexy fitted sweater in the film They Won’t Forget. Trust me, no one forgot how absolutely sexy she looked. From that moment on, other actresses realized how much attention they could get with these very snug-fitting garments and also began wearing them. This new fashion trend then created what the world viewed as a new version of a sex symbol.

It’s also said that Lana Turner’s picture was very popular with soldiers during World War II. Along with Lana, soldiers would have many photos of other actresses and pin-up models with them. Apparently, this was a source of comfort for them, and it helped them a bit when they were homesick. It was also a great way for them to be distracted from the horrors going on around them.

The popularity of the sweater girl grew when actresses such as Jayne Mansfield, Jane Russell, Patti Page, and, of course, Marilyn Monroe started also wearing the tighter-fitting sweaters.

The styling of the tight-fitting sweater could be in a variety of different ways. It could be plain with either a turtleneck or some variation of a scoop neck, and occasionally a V-neck, but not as often. Very often, as well, they would be embellished with either embroidery, sequins, or some sort of beading. Often, you would see these in sweater sets as well. These beautiful sweaters not only highlighted the beautiful hourglass figures due to their form-fitting shape, but they also got a little bit of help with the famous bullet bra.

At this time, we were also seeing more progress in the way that fabric was being made. You could get fabric for sweaters that was made with cashmere or angora, and even yarn for knitting that had become softer. It wasn’t that itchy scratchy wool any longer. Because fabrics such as cashmere and angora fabrics could also be made thinner and this would also add to the ability to have it more form-fitting. Occasionally, sweaters would also be made with cotton, though at that time, I don’t think cotton would hold up as well as wool. I feel like it would have eventually lost shape a little bit. Over time, of course, cotton did improve with technology.

I absolutely love the look of bullet bras, and they’ve become very, very popular in today’s pin-up culture and rockabilly culture. The sweater girl look has never really vanished. Many companies make modern versions of the bullet bras, as well as you can still find vintage ones. Unfortunately, a lot of vintage lingerie and underpinnings don’t hold up to newer ones. In a lot of cases, the elastic fabric needed for flexibility in a brassiere often deteriorates, and a lot of the structure is lost because of that. Though I do see a lot of vintage lovers posting about finding original bullet bras. I’m sure if you are somebody who sews or you know somebody who does, parts of that bra can be fixed in order to make it wearable again.

As I mentioned earlier with the evolving exposure of the women’s figure can cause controversy around the tight-fitting sweaters. another clutch your pearls moment of women wanting to show off their bus lines and their wastes. Many felt that this was the moral downfall of youth post-World War II, even though this trend started before the war. According to a couple of articles that I read about this, they were saying that the bobby sockers were the worst influencers of all of the women. During this time, bobby soxers were usually either teenagers or women in their early twenties. I think every generation picks that sort of age range to blame for the downfall of society.

Two coeds looking at poster advertising the San Souci Club at Arlington State College, 1958

There is even a movie called The Sweater Girl. The Sweater Girl is a 1942 film that was written by Robert Blees and Beulah Marie Dix, and it was directed by William Clemens. This movie also starred actors Eddie Bracken, June Preisser, Philip Terry, and Betty Jean Rhodes. The movie was a low-budget comedy, and the plot is about college students attempting to solve a series of murders on campus, while at the same time, they’re trying to put on a big show for the school.

Then, in 1944, Navy Screen Magazine did a one-reel short that showed portions of the special Armed Forces Radio Network recording session. This session was with Bob Hope, where he introduces Judy Garland as a sweater girl before she begins to sing Over the Rainbow. Apparently, Garland asked Bob Hope why he thought that the men in the audience were so crazy about sweater girls, and of course, in his wisecracking lines, he said, “That’s one mystery I’d like to unravel”. Very typical of Bob Hope of that era.

As I mentioned in the video, here is a guide if you would like to try out the sweater girl look!

1. Sweater & Top

Fit: Choose a form-fitting sweater that hugs the bust and waist. Stretchy knits or wool blends work best.
Neckline: Crew neck, scoop neck, or slightly sweetheart-shaped. Some vintage styles had subtle puffed shoulders.
Length: Tuck the sweater into your high-waisted skirt or pants to emphasize the waist.
Colors: Pastels, red, black, or cream were classic. Solid colors are more authentic than bold prints.
Optional Details: Buttons or small embellishments, like a tiny bow or knit pattern, add retro charm.

2. Skirt & Bottoms

High-Waisted Pencil Skirt: Knee-length or just below the knee, fitted but not overly tight.
A-Line Skirt: Offers a softer, more playful look while still accentuating the waist.
Wide Belts: Cinch the waist further; a simple leather or fabric belt works perfectly.
High-Waisted Pants: For a slightly more casual look, tailored trousers with a defined waist also work.

3. Hair

Victory Rolls: Iconic 1940s rolled hairstyle.
Soft Waves: Loose, side-parted waves for a more 1950s look.
Updos: Simple chignons or ponytails with curls at the ends work well for a polished look.
Accessories: Hair scarves, ribbons, or vintage-style hairpins complete the look.

4. Makeup

Eyes: Neutral eyeshadow, winged eyeliner, and defined brows.
Lips: Classic red or pink lipstick, matte or slightly glossy.
Cheeks: Subtle blush to highlight the cheekbones.
Optional: Light mascara or false lashes to enhance the eyes.

5. Shoes & Accessories

Shoes: Pointed-toe pumps, Mary Janes, or classic kitten heels.
Bags: Structured handbags or small clutch bags.
Jewelry: Simple pearl earrings or a delicate necklace.

Additional links:

1930s Summer Fashion: https://youtu.be/2dVsUeQXpkg
Tasha Could Make That: https://tashacouldmakethat.com/
Andi Satterlund: https://www.patreon.com/c/AndiSatterlund/about
Poison Grrls: https://www.poisongrrls.com/

If you enjoyed this video, please subscribe, give this video a thumbs up if you liked it and also, I now have memberships on this channel and those memberships do include early access to weekly videos, eventually I’ll do semi-regular members only chats, you’ll get discounts to new products, I’ll also do some members only posts, videos and possibly some tutorials shortly. It does not cost that much to join, and it helps out my channel.

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1940s, 1950s, 1960s, 1970s, caftan, history

The History of the Caftan

August 29, 2025 Lizzie Violet

When you think of a caftan, you might immediately visualize Elizabeth Taylor swooning around in her beautifully flowing silk robes, or your mind may float its way to the 1970s and Bea Arthur in Maud, or even Mrs. Roper for the 1977 – 1984 sitcom Three’s Company. The caftan has recently experienced a resurgence in popularity, partly due to the Tiki Community, as well as vintage reproduction sewists who have been scooping up caftan sewing patterns. Social media is abuzz with the stylish, loungeworthy garments! I even have plans to make one or two myself. The caftan, however, isn’t a modern invention; it has a long, rich history that goes beyond the 1970s. If you want to find out more about the Caftan, watch this video.

What is a caftan/kaftan?

Before we dive into the history of the caftan, I wanted to explain why I am doing these types of videos. In today’s culture, we wear garments based on other cultures, and there is an important history behind these garments. If we’re going to wear or design clothing based on any of this, we must understand the history of that particular culture. The vintage and vintage reproduction community embraces historical clothing and costumes, and sometimes we are so excited about finding a vintage piece or a pattern to replicate that we tend to forget its origins. I think it is really important to understand this. Right now, the caftan has made a massive resurgence, and this is partly due to the tiki community. As well, we’re now seeing a lot of people scooping up old caftan sewing patterns, and modern designers are recreating the patterns so everyone can access them. I think this is wonderful, but this is an example of what I just mentioned. We need to understand where it all began.

I also want to mention this is not going to be a super in-depth history lesson about the caftan. I wanted to give you a brief history before we talk about modern looks and where you can find resources and ways to recreate the caftan. I have been intrigued for a very long time about this garment, and I have waffled back and forth about doing a more in-depth series specifically about the different cultures and eras that have worn the caftan. If this is something that is of interest, please let me know when I can do a multipart series about the history of the caftan.

Now on to the history.

A caftan is a garment whose design is a variation of a robe or tunic. I’ll get a little more in-depth about where it possibly originated, but the general knowledge of the caftan is that it originated in Asia, and it’s been worn by many different cultures around the world for thousands of years. Some cultures also have slight variations on the caftan.

A caftan can be made in a variety of different fabrics, including wool, cashmere, silk, or cotton, and most of the time it is either worn with a sash or it has a sash built into the garment. It can be made with a plain fabric or it can be incredibly elaborate with beading, sequins, and embroidery. Plainer fabric caftans would normally be worn by everyday people, and ones that are much more elaborate would usually be worn by heads of state or royalty.

In some cases, it would be worn as a day-to-day garment, and in other cases, it would be a coat or part of an entire ensemble. Most would also be floor length as opposed to some more modern ones, where they are just below the knee. But in almost all cases, they would be flowing and very loose-fitting for comfort.

Now that we know a little bit more about what exactly a caftan is, let’s talk about where it all began.

Every piece of clothing you wear has a history, inspired by another garment of our past, whether it be a more recent past or centuries ago. The caftan is one of these garments and is much older than you might imagine. There has also been a lot of discussion around exactly where the true origins of the caftan come from. Some believe it is based on the Japanese kimono, while others argue that the original caftan is based on the caftan worn in the 830s, Byzantine Empire. When you look at today’s caftans, they resemble more of a Middle Eastern style caftan as opposed to the kimono; however, I do see why you would think it comes from one or the other.

The caftan wasn’t just worn in Japan or the Middle East; many other cultures also embraced this beautiful, flowing garment. The history of the caftan can be seen in Africa, Asia, and Russia.

From my research, the earliest version of the caftan seems to have been worn in 830 in the Byzantine Empire, as I mentioned above. The caftan was and still is incredibly popular in hot climates, due to its breathability and flowing fabrics. You could cover up from the sun and remain somewhat cool.

Another incredibly interesting part of the caftan history is that it appears to be the oldest Turkish dress. It can be traced as far back as the Hun, the Ottomans, and the Göktürks periods. These garments can also be found in some Hun tombs as well.

Many of these garments were manufactured from fabrics made in places such as Istanbul and Bursa, but some of those fabrics even came as far away as Venice, Genoa, Persia, India, and sometimes even China. I can only imagine how stunning these fabrics would be and what the completed caftans would look like. They would be breathtaking.

Depending on what part of the world you’re in, you would wear the caftan differently. For example, in West Africa, the caftan was worn by both men and women and usually was a robe that was pulled over the head and worn with pants that would have a drawstring at the waist.

In Russia, it refers to a style of men’s long suits with tight sleeves

Other countries and communities might wear the caftan belted, while others will have it remain loose. Different countries would have different types of fabrics, colors, and textures. This would all depend on the fabrics that were available to them and the fabrics that would be most comfortable for them in their climate.

Different religious communities would also wear the caftans, such as the Jewish communities or the Muslim communities. In those cases, they would often be a specific color and worn in a very specific way due to that culture or religion.

So that was a brief history of the caftan, bringing us up towards modern times. As I mentioned above, I am more than happy to do a more in-depth series about this, as the culture and history of this remarkable garment are quite in-depth and very interesting.

What would the modern caftan be? As I mentioned above, the tiki community has helped to bring back the popularity of the caftan, but before that, you would have seen it in movies, television, magazines, and photographed on a variety of celebrities, going back as far as the 1950s. As with many types of fashion, it does get popularized more when a person of fame wears it. Elizabeth Taylor is one of the most iconic actors who was photographed (quite often) wearing one. There are even photos of Marlon Brando wearing one, and on television, the wonderful Mrs. Roper is also someone who comes to mind. She is also honored with a Mrs. Roper Day every year, where there is a gathering and parade of red-wigged, caftan-wearing fans.

Before its current wave of popularity, the caftan was incredibly popular in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. It was boldly embraced by the hippie culture, especially.

In the 1950s, designers such as Christian Dior and Cristobal incorporated caftan-inspired elements into many of their collections, and that included dresses and coats that would also have very high slits.

As they are today, they would be worn for a variety of reasons, from lounging at home to wearing them as a Hostess Dress or, of course, if you’re lounging by the pool or at the beach, you can wear them as a cover-up later. As with historical costumes, fabrics range from very comfortable cottons up to very fancy silks and brocades.

As we move into the 1960s and 1970s, the caftan has now become part of the hippie and bohemian lifestyles, and most people started associating it with that culture. Though you are still seeing celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor wearing the caftan on a variety of different occasions. She was photographed a lot in some of the most beautiful fabrics that you would see at that time.

Then, as we move into the mid-70s, we’re seeing the caftan becoming a regular part of television shows. As I mentioned in my intro, Bea Arthur wore the caftan occasionally in the television series Maud, and then, of course, our beloved Mrs. Roper made it incredibly popular as a very fun way to lounge around the home. She would accessorize with the most outrageous jewelry, and I absolutely adored it when I watched it back in the ’70s, as well as when I watch the reruns now. She is my absolute favorite part of that entire show, and there has been a love for her for many decades. As I mentioned above, there is a day that is dedicated to her, and I love that.

I have been wanting to make one myself, and I do have a sewing pattern right here. I have many friends who have made this, and currently, there is a version of this over on Gertie’s Patreon in case you are a member. I did have a struggle trying to find this particular pattern. Everywhere I looked, it was sold out as it has become super popular. I believe it is because of the ease of making it. I have fabric set aside for it, I just need to find time to make it. I don’t want to just make it for summer; I think this would be a lovely lounging garment for the colder months as well. I mean, think about it, a Halloween-themed caftan! Raise your hand if you’re there with me.

I hope you enjoyed this history lesson, although brief, about the caftan, as well as a little bit about what is happening in modern culture with it.
If you enjoyed this video, please subscribe, give this video a thumbs up if you liked it and also, I now have memberships on this channel and those memberships do include early access to weekly videos, eventually I’ll do semi-regular members only chats, you’ll get discounts to new products, I’ll also do some members only posts, videos and possibly some tutorials shortly. It does not cost that much to join, and it helps out my channel.

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1800s, 1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, 1960s, adjustable skirt, rebellious fashion

Rebellious Fashion: The History of Skorts

July 25, 2025July 29, 2025 Lizzie Violet

When you hear the word skort, you are likely to visualize part of an outfit that a tennis or golf player might be wearing. Did you know that skorts have a much richer history than that? Did you know they were once considered rebellious fashion? If you want to find out more. Watch this video!

In my continuing series about rebellious fashion, today, we’re talking about the skort!

Before I get into the history, for anyone wondering what a skort is, let me explain.

A skort is a combination of shorts and a skirt. The current design has a flap of fabric that covers the entire front of your shorts. If you look at female tennis players, you will generally see them wearing this garment. The beginnings of skorts started long before modern times!

Beginning around the 1890s, women began cycling. A huge fad that women felt they should be able to be a part of. However, their heavy skirts did not allow for them to do this with ease. Being able to use a bicycle also allowed women even more freedom. You also need to remember that we also have the Suffrage movement happening at this time, so every little bit of independence was a huge win. It is rumoured that many of those leading the movement enjoyed being able to utilize a way of transportation that only men did.

The original skort was more like a very voluminous pair of trousers. This allowed freedom of movement for the female cyclist, as well as allowing them to safely use the bicycle. You can just imagine getting one of those long and bulky skirts caught in a bicycle chain. That would have led to some serious injuries.

How did these trousers fare? Not very well. At that time, women simply did not wear trousers. According to society, it took away from their femininity. Trousers were meant for men. After getting a taste of the freedom of cycling as well as trousers, many women didn’t want to go back. This had women rethinking the clothing they were currently wearing. Restrictive corsets, huge skirts, bustles, and sleeves. In addition to trousers being meant for men, the cycling trousers would do something shocking to society. It exposed women’s ankles. Women would still be wearing wool stockings with their cycling trousers, but… society still had issues with this.

Could there be a compromise?

French designers would have the answer.

Always innovators of fashion, French designers were the first to evolve the cycling trousers into skorts! The French creation would be the trouser skirts. This allowed the freedom of trousers while continuing to keep modesty in check. In 1911, Paul Poiret produced several designs that were a combination of skirts and trousers, which were known as jupe-culottes, or also known as harem pants.

In the 1930s, there was a fitness craze and the desire to have more athletic-looking bodies. Because of this, even more women were taking up sports, especially tennis and golf. The skort also became popular as everyday wear. Skorts were still fairly long at this time, and it wasn’t uncommon for a woman to wear wool stockings with them.

In 1931, enter one of our favourite rebellious fashion designers, Elsa Schiaparelli! Elsa designed a pair of skorts for Spanish tennis player Lili Alvarez. This version of the skort was a pair of culottes (which Elsa is well known for), with a piece of fabric draped across the front for modesty. It was the first time that skorts had been worn to Wimbledon. Some of the audience members were aghast and vocal with their thoughts on the skort. When it was worn at the French Open, the audience was much more relaxed about it.

In the 1930s, you would also see women in college adapting skorts as part of their athletic uniforms!

Then the skort lost popularity. They were still being used in sports, but not in everyday wear. At this point, it was no longer considered taboo for women to wear trousers, and the skort lost its edge.

Then, in 1959, the skort reappeared in a 1959 Spring/Summer Montgomery Ward catalogue. In this version of the skort, it was a pleated skirt with shorts underneath the skirt.

Welcome to the 1960s and short hemlines, skorts evolved again to fit with those styles and would remain short for the most part, up until today.

Today, skorts are fashionable in sports and everyday wear. As everyday wear, you get the best of both worlds, shorts and a skirt. Perfect for breezy summer days! However, their history is much more important than that. They were a very important part of feminism, allowing women to participate in the same luxuries as men, from cycling to sports. It was a rebellious statement, and we should always remember that.

At some point in the near future, I plan on self-drafting a skort and will have a tutorial for that.