1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, sewing, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Draft at Home Systems

I’ve been slightly obsessed with the Draft at Home Systems that were popular between the 1920s to the late 1950s. As someone who self-drafts or has to resize vintage patterns, I fully appreciate the adventure of using these systems. I mentioned in a recent post that it is time for me to level up my sewing skills and I personally think that this is the way to to do it, not to mention, I can continue to customize patterns and garments to fit my body.

What are Draft at Home Systems you ask? These were generally patterns or pattern books sent via mail order or found in magazines. Many of the books would include a variety of patterns including women, men, children and occasionally household patterns. The systems would also assume that an experienced home seamstresses would be using the patterns. In most cases patterns would not include facings, pockets or even instructions. It was up to you to figure that all out. The patterns themselves would be considered easy enough for the sewist to draft themselves, as sewing was a skill that would be taught from generation to generation. In my opinion, it should still be a learned skill that everyone should know — but, I digress, that is for another post.

There are several different types of Draft at Home Systems, I am listing several below and if you are interested in trying them out yourself, I will include links for as many as I can. The first ones listed are the ones I will be trying soon. I will be posting about my adventures in using these systems and I hope you come along for the journey! As I find more drafting systems I will be sure to blog about them.

Haslam System Of Dress Cutting The Haslam System was very popular from the 1930s all the way to the 1950s, which is quite a feat as many other drafting systems would generally be popular for a particular period and fall out of popularity when a newer, better system was created. I plan on making the green dress that is in the illustration below. I’ve wanted to make more 1930s fashions, but the sizing generally doesn’t fit me. With the actual Draft at Home System I can customize the pattern and garment to fit my measurements!

The Etsy store My Vintage Wish has quite a few Haslam patterns available.

Mrs. Depew Many of Mrs. Depew’s patterns are from a French pattern drafting system fairly similar to the Lutterloh golden rule patterns. Thought the site doesn’t say which I am taking a wild guess that it is Eclair Coupe Paris. Though Mrs. Depew isn’t an actual drafting system, I am including it here as there are a lot of Draft at Home System patterns on her website. I feel like her website is also a great resource.

Sewists will be able to draft patterns to their exact sizes from the miniature pattern template and specially designed rulers. If you need help with drafting your pattern, Mrs. Depew has a really handy blog post about it.

Enid Gilchrist Enid Gilchrist was an Australian fashion designer, who became well known for her numerous self-drafting sewing pattern books which were very popular in the 1950s to 1970s. The pattern book I have has a great selection of dresses and I can’t wait to make one of the day dresses!  If you want to purchase a book Subversive Femme over on Etsy has two.

In addition to these three systems I have a few more I want to try out. I have listed those below with other drafting systems that are out there! These are just a few, there are so many more systems. The ones I am interested in are from 1900 to the early 1960s. I am always on the hunt and my goal is to try to make at least one garment from as many of the systems as I can.

Italian Drafting System Elegantissma was an Italian drafting system that was popular in the mid to late 1950s. If you want to buy one of the magazines, you can find them here.

Lutterloh Lutterloh is a German Draft at Home System and it is still used today. (http://www.lutterloh-system.com/)  

“Making fashionable, professional looking clothing, requires complete control over fabric, style and fit.

Choosing and making your own patterns, is the ideal way to create your individual style and achieve consistently proper fitting garments. The Lutterloh pattern making system is the perfect solution for today’s busy sewer.

Fashion conscious sewers from around the world have been using the Lutterloh method for decades, beginners and professionals alike. This system is quick and easy to learn.

Astonishingly simple, you need only two measurements to make an excellent fitting pattern every time.“ www.lutterloh-system.com

Eclair Coupe Paris This system was developed in the late 20s. I’ve compared it to the other pattern systems I have and I am finding this one quite easy to follow. I like that you get handy paper rulers that go up to very large sizes. I have also found instructions on how to make my own rulers if need be.

Glass of Fashion has a lovely selection of patterns.

Magazines A large variety of women’s magazines would contain either knitting, crochet or sewing patterns. I’ve listed a few below.

Australian Home Journal
Good Needlework
Home Chat
Ladies Companion
Ladies Home Journal
My Home
Stitchcraft
Weldon’s Ladies Journal (Here is a link to a pdf of a magazine )
Women at Home
Women’s Life
Women’s Weekly
Women’s World

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1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, bird, birds, free knitting pattern, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage style

Birds-a-long

I’m excited to announce our next knit-a-long!!!

Let’s help encourage warm spring weather with a bird themed knit-a-long!  Everyone loves birds!

For this knit-a-long, you can use your own pattern, it just needs to be vintage (1920s (or earlier) to 1950s) and have birds on it. Not worry, if you don’t have a pattern in your stash we will be providing some patterns or information on where to search!  To be part of the KAL please join our Facebook group. The next KAL runs from April 1st to June 30th. No fool’n!

Link to our Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintageknitalong/

If you post your KAL photos on Instagram please tag me at @killerkitsch13 and use tags #killerkitschknitalong and #birdsalong.

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, sew-a-long, sewing, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Slips, Petticoats, and Crinolines Oh My!

Slips, Petticoats and Crinolines Oh My! For the month of January let’s make one of the most requested sew-a-long’s! It is also something pretty to put underneath your dresses and skirts!

For this SAL we will be making slips (half or full), crinolines or petticoats! The choice is up to you. You can also use your own pattern or one of the self-draft patterns in the links provided in the group! If you have a pattern that you want added to the list, please send us the link and we will add it!

This sew-a-long will run from January 1st to the 31st. I have created and FAQ page with links and you will find it in the files over at our Killer Kitsch Vintage WIPs group. There is a variety of tutorials that are very easy to follow. To be part of this and all of our sew-a-longs, please join our group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintagewips/

As always, if you post on Instagram please tag @killerkitsch13 and use hashtags #killerkitschsewalong #petticoat-a-long.

Don’t forget that we still have a beret-a-long going on until December 31st and an ongoing Accessory-a-long until March!

Uncategorized

Our First Knit-a-long for 2019 is a Stripes-a-long!

Whether vertical or horizontal, everyone needs some stripes in their vintage wardrobe! Adding a little texture or patterns to your knit also makes it all that much more fun!  For our first vintage knit-along for 2019 let’s do a stripes-a-long!

For this knit-a-long, you can use your own pattern, it just needs to be vintage (1920s to 1950s) and have a stripe texture. Not worry, if you don’t have a pattern in your stash I will be providing some patterns or information on where to search!  The patterns I am providing are all free for use and will be in the files area of our Facebook Group. I will also have an information document in the group as well. The stripes-a-long will run from January 1st to March 31st, 2019.

Link to our Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintageknitalong/

If you post your KAL photos on Instagram please tag me at @killerkitsch13 and use tags #killerkitschknitalong and #stripesalong.

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, free knitting pattern, knitting, knitting community, Uncategorized, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns

November Knit-a-longs!

Hello! For the month of November we will be doing TWO KALs! All of the details are below!

Raise your hand if you’ve started knitting your Xmas Jumpers!!! If not, don’t worry, we have the perfect knit-a-long for you! For the month of November we will be knitting Andi Satterlund’s Julgran Jumper! This jumper is knitted in worsted weight and will be a fast knit! We will begin on November 1st and have an end date of November 30th, BUT don’t worry, if you don’t think you can finish it by then, please still do the KAL. It will be a lot of fun!

Andi has very generously provided us with a discount code for the pattern. To receive the code and to join the KAL, please go to our Facebook group! https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintageWIPs/

Andi is super excited that we are doing a KAL for her sweater! I hope you are as well!

The KAL will be from November 1st to November 30th and as with all other KALs and SALs, if you post on Instagram please tag @killerkitsch13 @andisatt and use hashtags #killerkitschknitalong#andisatt and #julgranalong.

For some of us the colder weather is coming and with the chilly air and snowflakes we need fall and winter accessories! It’s also time to start your Xmas gifts and what better gift than a handmade accessory!!! For these reasons and sometimes you just need a quick fun knit, we’ve decided to have an accessory-a-long!

The accessory-a-long will run from November 1st to February 28th! It can be a pattern in our .pdf document or one of your own favourite patterns! If you have any patterns that you want to add to accessory-a-long, please send me a .pdf or jpg files and will add them. 

As with all other KALs and SALs, if you post on Instagram please tag @killerkitsch13 and use hashtags #killerkitschknitalong #accessoryalong

Thank you to Erica and Beth for providing patterns for this KAL!

Since we are doing a KAL, we won’t be doing a SAL in November. We will continue with SALs in December.

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, sewing, Uncategorized, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

I’ve Awoken the Monster

Once upon a time, in a land far, far away, a little girl would draw and draw and draw. Some of those drawings were of glorious garments to be worn by princesses and queens. Then one day, an evil sorcerer cast a spell on the young girl forcing her to take job after job after job leaving little time to draw or sew. This left the little girl very, very sad.

One day, while the little girl was re-arranging books on a very dusty bookcase, she came across a book of drawings. These drawings looked familiar and a nostalgia began to build in that little girl. It grew and grew and grew until that little part of her heart woke up again. A monster that had been hidden away, climbed out and reminded the little girl how much joy drawing and then turning her illustrations into garments made her. The little girl decided it was time to stop hiding that wonderful monster away! That little girl started drawing again, every single day!

Not the end, but a new beginning.

I am that little girl. After a few decades of not drawing, I have begun again. My skills are rusty. Oh boy… are they ever.  The thing is, you need to practice. They say 10,000 hours until you have finally got it. I’m about 14 or 15 hours in at this point. I have a ways to go.

You are wondering why I decided to begin again. For myself, it is easiest for me to articulate my ideas in writing and by drawing. Since I have begun making my own garments again, I have millions of ideas floating in my head. Many moons ago, I would sketch an outfit, draft up a pattern and make it. I’ve gotten back to the latter and need to do the former to help work out the look and feel. I’ve already created one of the outfits I drew.

I’m going to do something here. Step outside of my comfort zone. I’m going to post pictures of some of the drawings I’ve done so far (these are only a few, I haven’t taken pictures of everything). Maybe in a years time, when I look back, I will see an improvement. When you look at them, be gentle. I am just starting again after many years of not drawing. I’ve awoken a monster in my head and this is how to release it.

One hour at a time… 10,000 hours ahead of me!

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1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, sewing, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Patio Dress Sew-a-long

Ric-rac
Patty wac
Give your dress some trim!

We’ve self-drafted a circle skirt. We’ve self-drafted a peasant blouse. Let’s put it all together and make a self-drafted, two-piece patio dress! Our next sew-a-long begins on August 1st and it will end on August 31st! However, the beauty of this sew-a-long is you don’t need to self-draft the pattern. If you have patio dress pattern or patterns for the separate pieces that will work together, please use those as well.

I know you are wondering why I am announcing this so soon. Our next sew-a-long begins on August 1st and it will end on August 31st. I’m making this one a month long, so that everyone has time to complete this SAL since it is a bigger project than the other ones we’ve done so far.

A patio dress can be one complete dress or separates. It can be a circle skirt or a tiered skirt. The top can be peasant style, v-neck or a blouse style. It’s up to you. Know what else is up to you, how you decorate it. The most popular way to decorate it is with ricrac and embroidered ribbon, however, I have seen lace and other trims used! So… have fun with it!

I am including links to how to self-draft and other tutorials and of course, photos for reference!

Please join our Facebook group! https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintagewips/ 

If you post photos on Instagram, please tag me @killerkitsch13 and use hashtags, #killerkitschsewalong #patiodresssewalong

We are starting on August 1st and will do the SAL for the month of August!

Everyone is welcome to join!


Tiered Skirt —
http://sevenfarmgirlsisters.com/tiered-petticoatskirt-tutorial/
http://www.sewstylish.com/app/uploads/2017/11/SSBlogPeasantSkirt.pdf
http://www.squaredancesewing.com/swinging_skirts_2/tiered_skirts/basic_calculations.html
https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/322148179567614459/
https://www.domestic-divaonline.com/tiered-skirts

Peasant Blouse Tutorials (just add ricrac) —
http://thingsofcloth.blogspot.com/2008/07/adult-size-peasant-blouse-tutorial.html?m=1
http://apairandasparediy.com/2015/07/diy-off-the-shoulder-top-3/
http://dushonok.com/2015/07/17/off-the-shoulder-top-diy/
http://www.trashtocouture.com/2017/05/diy-off-shoulder-ruffle-top.html
https://mellysews.com/2014/09/sew-peasant-top-pattern-women.html
https://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2007/09/13/off-shoulder-ruffled-blouse/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5s0bUCsDhI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIEHfnJlKbE

Patterns to purchase — (Etsy has many, here is an example)

https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/597775572/vintage-sewing-pattern-reproduction?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=patio%20dress%20pattern&ref=sr_gallery-1-1

How to sew on Ric rac —
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Too8kKlsco
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHEDW6QI8gY
https://blog.treasurie.com/sewing-ric-rac/
https://sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/how-sew-rick-rack-most-terrific-trims