1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, sewing, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Draft at Home Systems

I’ve been slightly obsessed with the Draft at Home Systems that were popular between the 1920s to the late 1950s. As someone who self-drafts or has to resize vintage patterns, I fully appreciate the adventure of using these systems. I mentioned in a recent post that it is time for me to level up my sewing skills and I personally think that this is the way to to do it, not to mention, I can continue to customize patterns and garments to fit my body.

What are Draft at Home Systems you ask? These were generally patterns or pattern books sent via mail order or found in magazines. Many of the books would include a variety of patterns including women, men, children and occasionally household patterns. The systems would also assume that an experienced home seamstresses would be using the patterns. In most cases patterns would not include facings, pockets or even instructions. It was up to you to figure that all out. The patterns themselves would be considered easy enough for the sewist to draft themselves, as sewing was a skill that would be taught from generation to generation. In my opinion, it should still be a learned skill that everyone should know — but, I digress, that is for another post.

There are several different types of Draft at Home Systems, I am listing several below and if you are interested in trying them out yourself, I will include links for as many as I can. The first ones listed are the ones I will be trying soon. I will be posting about my adventures in using these systems and I hope you come along for the journey! As I find more drafting systems I will be sure to blog about them.

Haslam System Of Dress Cutting The Haslam System was very popular from the 1930s all the way to the 1950s, which is quite a feat as many other drafting systems would generally be popular for a particular period and fall out of popularity when a newer, better system was created. I plan on making the green dress that is in the illustration below. I’ve wanted to make more 1930s fashions, but the sizing generally doesn’t fit me. With the actual Draft at Home System I can customize the pattern and garment to fit my measurements!

The Etsy store My Vintage Wish has quite a few Haslam patterns available.

Mrs. Depew Many of Mrs. Depew’s patterns are from a French pattern drafting system fairly similar to the Lutterloh golden rule patterns. Thought the site doesn’t say which I am taking a wild guess that it is Eclair Coupe Paris. Though Mrs. Depew isn’t an actual drafting system, I am including it here as there are a lot of Draft at Home System patterns on her website. I feel like her website is also a great resource.

Sewists will be able to draft patterns to their exact sizes from the miniature pattern template and specially designed rulers. If you need help with drafting your pattern, Mrs. Depew has a really handy blog post about it.

Enid Gilchrist Enid Gilchrist was an Australian fashion designer, who became well known for her numerous self-drafting sewing pattern books which were very popular in the 1950s to 1970s. The pattern book I have has a great selection of dresses and I can’t wait to make one of the day dresses!  If you want to purchase a book Subversive Femme over on Etsy has two.

In addition to these three systems I have a few more I want to try out. I have listed those below with other drafting systems that are out there! These are just a few, there are so many more systems. The ones I am interested in are from 1900 to the early 1960s. I am always on the hunt and my goal is to try to make at least one garment from as many of the systems as I can.

Italian Drafting System Elegantissma was an Italian drafting system that was popular in the mid to late 1950s. If you want to buy one of the magazines, you can find them here.

Lutterloh Lutterloh is a German Draft at Home System and it is still used today. (http://www.lutterloh-system.com/)  

“Making fashionable, professional looking clothing, requires complete control over fabric, style and fit.

Choosing and making your own patterns, is the ideal way to create your individual style and achieve consistently proper fitting garments. The Lutterloh pattern making system is the perfect solution for today’s busy sewer.

Fashion conscious sewers from around the world have been using the Lutterloh method for decades, beginners and professionals alike. This system is quick and easy to learn.

Astonishingly simple, you need only two measurements to make an excellent fitting pattern every time.“ www.lutterloh-system.com

Eclair Coupe Paris This system was developed in the late 20s. I’ve compared it to the other pattern systems I have and I am finding this one quite easy to follow. I like that you get handy paper rulers that go up to very large sizes. I have also found instructions on how to make my own rulers if need be.

Glass of Fashion has a lovely selection of patterns.

Magazines A large variety of women’s magazines would contain either knitting, crochet or sewing patterns. I’ve listed a few below.

Australian Home Journal
Good Needlework
Home Chat
Ladies Companion
Ladies Home Journal
My Home
Stitchcraft
Weldon’s Ladies Journal (Here is a link to a pdf of a magazine )
Women at Home
Women’s Life
Women’s Weekly
Women’s World

Advertisements
1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, bird, birds, free knitting pattern, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage style

Birds-a-long

I’m excited to announce our next knit-a-long!!!

Let’s help encourage warm spring weather with a bird themed knit-a-long!  Everyone loves birds!

For this knit-a-long, you can use your own pattern, it just needs to be vintage (1920s (or earlier) to 1950s) and have birds on it. Not worry, if you don’t have a pattern in your stash we will be providing some patterns or information on where to search!  To be part of the KAL please join our Facebook group. The next KAL runs from April 1st to June 30th. No fool’n!

Link to our Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintageknitalong/

If you post your KAL photos on Instagram please tag me at @killerkitsch13 and use tags #killerkitschknitalong and #birdsalong.

Uncategorized

Our First Knit-a-long for 2019 is a Stripes-a-long!

Whether vertical or horizontal, everyone needs some stripes in their vintage wardrobe! Adding a little texture or patterns to your knit also makes it all that much more fun!  For our first vintage knit-along for 2019 let’s do a stripes-a-long!

For this knit-a-long, you can use your own pattern, it just needs to be vintage (1920s to 1950s) and have a stripe texture. Not worry, if you don’t have a pattern in your stash I will be providing some patterns or information on where to search!  The patterns I am providing are all free for use and will be in the files area of our Facebook Group. I will also have an information document in the group as well. The stripes-a-long will run from January 1st to March 31st, 2019.

Link to our Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintageknitalong/

If you post your KAL photos on Instagram please tag me at @killerkitsch13 and use tags #killerkitschknitalong and #stripesalong.

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, free knitting pattern, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, sew-a-long, sewing, Uncategorized, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage sewing

December Beret-a-long!

The beret has been an accessory for centuries but became a fashion staple when made popular in the 1920s by sassy actresses such as Clara Bow, Louise Brooks, Marlene Dietrich, Carol Lombard, and Marion Davies. It continued to be popular as each decade of fashion changed and it is a popular quick knit, crochet or sew when you need to add a little something extra to your wardrobe!

The beret is versatile and can be worn with short hair or long hair. It can be worn all year long. It can be knit, crocheted or sewn! It really is the perfect fashion accessory. For the entire month of December, we will be doing a Beret-a-long in conjunction with the ongoing Accessory-a-long! You can knit, crochet or sew your beret!

 

 



To be part of our Beret-a-long, please join our Facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintagewips/. If you aren’t on Facebook, you can still join in the fun via Instagram!

If you make a beret, please use the hashtags #beretalong #killerkitschknitalong #killerkitschsewalong and please tag @killerkitsch13 (Instagram).

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, sewing, Uncategorized, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

52 in 52, AKA – A Garment a Week

My birthday is on July 31. Smack dab in the middle of Leo. Born on The Day of Loki. Each year I’ve been making a promise to myself, not really a resolution, but a way of making myself and the universe happy. If you have read my post about Me Made, you will know what I’m talking about. It’s all about creating my own clothing. All of it!

This year I have decided to add a promise and for it to begin on August 1st. My plan is to make one garment a week, whether it be a top, skirt, dress, jacket, foundation garment or something I knit or crochet, these outfits will all count towards my 52. I have also decided to include anything I make during knit-a-longs and sew-a-longs as an item on the list. Heck… I’ve actually started a spreadsheet to track my progress and list the garments I make. The other part of this and the bigger part for me is that I also need to post a photo of me wearing the outfit once it is completed. As a matter of fact, at some point soon I am going to do a little photo session for all of the things I’ve made in the last year and a half. I have no excuse. I just need to get into the routine of doing it!

So… I know a few of you are wondering why I’m calling it a promise rather than a challenge… well… let me tell you why. For me, this is a lifestyle change. I’m going back to traditional dressmaking, I’m creating. I love creating my own garments and I always have. At one time I was going to study fashion design but chose graphic design instead. I also know how to self-draft as well as create printable patterns. I have always been madly in love with every single facet of dressmaking and now that I am back to it I am feeling empowered. I love that I not only make my own clothing, they fit well and I am proud to wear them. For me this is fun and adding the word challenge to it, will make it less than fun and really, who wants that.

Now… onto the next question. Would anyone else like to join in on this challenge with me?

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, Uncategorized, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction

The Agatha Christie Knit-a-long!

“Difficulties are made to be overcome ~ Miss Felicity Lemon, Agatha Christie’s Poirot: The Plymouth Express”

Growing up I devoured Agatha Christie novels. When Poirot and Miss Marple finally made it to television, I fell even more in love with both Miss Lemon and Miss Marple and of course will always have a mad crush on Hercule Poirot! I have always wanted to replicate so many jumpers, dresses, heck complete outfits from many of the episodes. I like many others have watched all of the Agatha Christie novel based shows over and over. They are my happy place. Now I am making mine and others dream of owning an Agatha Christie garment come true!  Let the Agatha Christie knit-a-long begin!!!

We have three patterns this time around for our Agatha Christie-themed knit-a-long !!! We will be doing the Miss Lemon Sweater and in honour of Miss Marple, a Swagger coat (there are two versions)!  The three patterns in the file area of our Facebook group!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

This Vintage Knit-a-long runs from July 1 to September 30th, 2018. I would like to give a huge thank you to Suna (Vintage Granny — http://vintagegranny.blogspot.ca/) for agreeing to allow us to use her pattern for the Miss Lemon jumper! Suna is also a member of our group, please say hi!  One of the swagger coats is from my store and the other Miss Marple swagger coat has been donated from Bex of the Subversive Femme. Thank you again to Suna and Bex for donating patterns.

If you are participating in the KAL and are posting your photos on Instagram, please tag me @killerkitsch13 and use hashtag  #killerkitschknitalong.  If you are using the swagger coat from Subversive Femme, please tag @bexthefemme.

I hope everyone is as excited as I am to get started!

All the links:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintageknitalong/

http://vintagegranny.blogspot.com/2013/01/miss-lemon.html

http://subversivefemme.com/swagger-coat-from-corticelli-mid-1930s/

 

 

 

 

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, sewing, Uncategorized, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage dream blog, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Me-Made Promises

Two years ago on my birthday, I made a promise to myself, my version of a New Years resolution.  What I promised was to stop buying ready made fast fashion and to start making my own garments and to start thrifting for items that can pass for vintage or be refashioned. There were a few reasons I wanted to do this. Firstly, I wanted to reduce and reuse. We used to have a mend and make do mentality that had gone out the door, or so I thought. The vintage community on Instagram opened my eyes up to that. Secondly, I’m a curvy girl and the thoughts of going into a department store and trying on clothing actually gives me tiny panic attacks. Do they put funhouse mirrors in those change rooms? Thirdly, and I think the most important on the list, making my own clothing and clothing that fits my body properly is empowering. This birthday, I am promising myself to work towards a mostly me-made wardrobe.

3a591ef420abe96ffe11a99f304adec0

I’ve decided not to go the full-on, 100 me-made wardrobe only because I know from time to time my fella will give me a gift card for some of my favourite vintage reproduction stores and as I said earlier, I want to thrift for clothing. The only time I don’t have mini-meltdowns is when shopping in these types of stores. They actually create garments for curvy girls and I also know the clothing is well made. Additionally, I do want to add more vintage (when possible) to my wardrobe and vintage like thrifted items (especially knowing that the money from these thrift stores is going to a good cause). Instead, my goal is 75%, this is doable. A girls gotta give a girl some leeway, right?

41bfc59e1030a1c518f176b9d8f71c04

An additional promise I’m starting with this birthday is to do a pre-birthday closet purge. I have items in the said closet that haven’t been worn, may no longer fit or never really fit well ane they are literally just collecting dust and taking up space. Space that will quickly be filled by the garments I’ve been making. In the last month, I’ve made five skirts and am now moving onto tops and very soon, dresses.

68ef64b209ca5c34826c9da9b9677209

As I mentioned above,  it is empowering to make my own clothing and somewhere along the line I forgot that. When I was a kid my mother used to make our clothes and most of it was self-drafted. I remember how proud she was of her creations and that became my role model for being my own seamstress. All through my teens and a good part of my twenties, I continued the tradition making many of my own garments… then I stopped. For a long time I would say that life got in the way.  Somehow it became easier to buy inexpensive, horribly made clothing. You know, for time saving. Yet, I was still having to adjust things, take them in, fix seams, change buttons… who was I kidding!

1930

I’m the type of person who finds motivation when participating with other like minded individuals in functions such as making garments. I know from my past that if I joined a sew-a-long or knit-a-long I am going to challenge myself to complete a garment. These are the reasons why I’ve started Facebook groups both knit-a-longs and sew-a-longs. Not only do we create garments but we are using vintage or vintage reproduction patterns that challenge and improve our skills.

Another thing I have been doing to help motivate myself is by following garment creators and makers on both Instagram and blogs. Here are some of my favourites.

Atomic Redhead  https://atomicredhead.com/

By Gum By Golly http://bygumbygolly.com/ 

Evelyn Woods https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJ59owAiWL2IgaANbG-jm0Q

Harlow Darling http://www.harlowdarling.com/

Krystle Couturiere http://1930slife.blogspot.ca/

Lila & June https://lilaandjune.com/

Poision Grrls https://www.ravelry.com/stores/poison-grrls

Subversive Femme http://subversivefemme.com/

The Closest Historian http://theclosethistorian.blogspot.ca/ 

Vintage Dream Blog https://vintagedreamblog.wordpress.com/

Vintage Gal http://vintagegal.co.uk/

Vintage Sewing Pattern Catalogue https://thevspc.org/?wref=bif

We Sew Retro http://wesewretro.com/

f505df45e256bb7811a7e8e7b1d16340

I don’t expect to have hit the 75% mark by the time my birthday roles around next year, but I know that I will be well on my way to hitting that mark! I do have faith, I’ve been successful with my birthday promises this far. Do you make birthday promises as well?