1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, sewing, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Draft at Home Systems

I’ve been slightly obsessed with the Draft at Home Systems that were popular between the 1920s to the late 1950s. As someone who self-drafts or has to resize vintage patterns, I fully appreciate the adventure of using these systems. I mentioned in a recent post that it is time for me to level up my sewing skills and I personally think that this is the way to to do it, not to mention, I can continue to customize patterns and garments to fit my body.

What are Draft at Home Systems you ask? These were generally patterns or pattern books sent via mail order or found in magazines. Many of the books would include a variety of patterns including women, men, children and occasionally household patterns. The systems would also assume that an experienced home seamstresses would be using the patterns. In most cases patterns would not include facings, pockets or even instructions. It was up to you to figure that all out. The patterns themselves would be considered easy enough for the sewist to draft themselves, as sewing was a skill that would be taught from generation to generation. In my opinion, it should still be a learned skill that everyone should know — but, I digress, that is for another post.

There are several different types of Draft at Home Systems, I am listing several below and if you are interested in trying them out yourself, I will include links for as many as I can. The first ones listed are the ones I will be trying soon. I will be posting about my adventures in using these systems and I hope you come along for the journey! As I find more drafting systems I will be sure to blog about them.

Haslam System Of Dress Cutting The Haslam System was very popular from the 1930s all the way to the 1950s, which is quite a feat as many other drafting systems would generally be popular for a particular period and fall out of popularity when a newer, better system was created. I plan on making the green dress that is in the illustration below. I’ve wanted to make more 1930s fashions, but the sizing generally doesn’t fit me. With the actual Draft at Home System I can customize the pattern and garment to fit my measurements!

The Etsy store My Vintage Wish has quite a few Haslam patterns available.

Mrs. Depew Many of Mrs. Depew’s patterns are from a French pattern drafting system fairly similar to the Lutterloh golden rule patterns. Thought the site doesn’t say which I am taking a wild guess that it is Eclair Coupe Paris. Though Mrs. Depew isn’t an actual drafting system, I am including it here as there are a lot of Draft at Home System patterns on her website. I feel like her website is also a great resource.

Sewists will be able to draft patterns to their exact sizes from the miniature pattern template and specially designed rulers. If you need help with drafting your pattern, Mrs. Depew has a really handy blog post about it.

Enid Gilchrist Enid Gilchrist was an Australian fashion designer, who became well known for her numerous self-drafting sewing pattern books which were very popular in the 1950s to 1970s. The pattern book I have has a great selection of dresses and I can’t wait to make one of the day dresses!  If you want to purchase a book Subversive Femme over on Etsy has two.

In addition to these three systems I have a few more I want to try out. I have listed those below with other drafting systems that are out there! These are just a few, there are so many more systems. The ones I am interested in are from 1900 to the early 1960s. I am always on the hunt and my goal is to try to make at least one garment from as many of the systems as I can.

Italian Drafting System Elegantissma was an Italian drafting system that was popular in the mid to late 1950s. If you want to buy one of the magazines, you can find them here.

Lutterloh Lutterloh is a German Draft at Home System and it is still used today. (http://www.lutterloh-system.com/)  

“Making fashionable, professional looking clothing, requires complete control over fabric, style and fit.

Choosing and making your own patterns, is the ideal way to create your individual style and achieve consistently proper fitting garments. The Lutterloh pattern making system is the perfect solution for today’s busy sewer.

Fashion conscious sewers from around the world have been using the Lutterloh method for decades, beginners and professionals alike. This system is quick and easy to learn.

Astonishingly simple, you need only two measurements to make an excellent fitting pattern every time.“ www.lutterloh-system.com

Eclair Coupe Paris This system was developed in the late 20s. I’ve compared it to the other pattern systems I have and I am finding this one quite easy to follow. I like that you get handy paper rulers that go up to very large sizes. I have also found instructions on how to make my own rulers if need be.

Glass of Fashion has a lovely selection of patterns.

Magazines A large variety of women’s magazines would contain either knitting, crochet or sewing patterns. I’ve listed a few below.

Australian Home Journal
Good Needlework
Home Chat
Ladies Companion
Ladies Home Journal
My Home
Stitchcraft
Weldon’s Ladies Journal (Here is a link to a pdf of a magazine )
Women at Home
Women’s Life
Women’s Weekly
Women’s World

Advertisements
1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, bird, birds, free knitting pattern, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage style

Birds-a-long

I’m excited to announce our next knit-a-long!!!

Let’s help encourage warm spring weather with a bird themed knit-a-long!  Everyone loves birds!

For this knit-a-long, you can use your own pattern, it just needs to be vintage (1920s (or earlier) to 1950s) and have birds on it. Not worry, if you don’t have a pattern in your stash we will be providing some patterns or information on where to search!  To be part of the KAL please join our Facebook group. The next KAL runs from April 1st to June 30th. No fool’n!

Link to our Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintageknitalong/

If you post your KAL photos on Instagram please tag me at @killerkitsch13 and use tags #killerkitschknitalong and #birdsalong.

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, sew-a-long, sewing, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

Solving Winter Blues

Our winter has been one of the most confusing, depressing and what feels like neverending in what feels like forever. Actually, I don’t recall a winter being this icy and grey as long as I can remember. Usually, November is bleak and grey, but from that point on the days are generally sunny and cold. We have went through three-plus months of minimal sun and it has not only been affecting my mood, but my motivation to sew. This week we had lots of sun and my sewing mojo is back! Ok… enough of the whining!

What I’ve been doing to combat the blues and to get inspired again, is I am researching and dreaming of my spring and summer wardrobe! I have also decided that 2019 will be the year that I up my sewing skills. It’s time to level up!

Over the last few years, I’ve been intrigued with the draft-at-home-systems such as Haslam, Mrs. Depew, Enid Gilchrist, Eiffel Pattern Drafting System, Lutterloh and other French and Italian systems. I currently have Haslam, Mrs. Depew and Enid Gilchrist and am researching others. I want to try them all! As I make a garment from each of the drafting systems I will be blogging about it and posting on my social media (Instagram & Facebook).

The beauty of these systems is they will also help me build my 2019 spring and summer wardrobe! I really want to start adding colour to my wardrobe and I’ve been obsessing a bit on 1940s summer styles such as embroidered Mexican Peasant blouses & dresses, espadrilles, big floppy hats and beach pajamas. If we get another sweltering hot summer like last year, these will be perfect. Oh, and I can’t forget a 1950s style tiki wardrobe! We will be doing a collaboration for a tiki set in our March sew-a-long! See my last post!

I also have some spring/summer knits in mind as well. I am almost done my last winter knit and am excited to get some lighter knits on my needles. I am looking to knit a few summer blouses in cotton yarn as well! You can check out my knitting queue over on Ravelry!

Are you tired of winter yet? Have you tried draft-at-home systems and if you have which ones have you used? What are your vintage summer wardrobe dreams and future makes?

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, sew-a-long, sewing, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage sewing, vintage style

2019 Pledge

This time of year, people start thinking about their New Year’s resolutions and the majority of these, last for maybe the first week of January. Many years ago I stopped making resolutions. Instead, I have been making pledges and for things that will make me happy. This year I’m extra excited about my pledge for 2019!

Back in June I talked about my Me Made promises to myself and my wardrobe goals and though I wasn’t able to make everything in the potential queue, I’ve made quite a lot. I just did the math and since that post, I have sewn eighteen garments and in 2018 knit nine garments. I was basically sewing a garment a week for a while, though the last few months I haven’t quite sewn as much due to it being a busy time.  I have to say, I’m very proud of myself for what I’ve accomplished so far. In 2019 I plan to have even greater success.

Now onto my sewing and needlework plans for 2019! I’ve decided that I don’t want to just sew individual random pieces. This worked perfectly in 2018 because I needed to fill holes in my wardrobe, however, in 2019 I want to go bigger! With the exception of the sew-a-longs over in our Facebook group, I want to focus on very specific themes. The ones I want to do at the beginning of 2019 are Audrey from Little Shop of Horrors (the original) and Miss Lemon from Poirot.  These two I am firm on and am thinking about other themes for the rest of the year. I’m also considering re-producing some of Clara Bow’s outfits more towards the end of the year I have them to chime in 2020! The twenties are back baby!

My scariest feat for 2019 will be…. I’m making pants. Being a skirt and dress girl, I don’t remember the last time I actually wore pants. It’s been years. I generally don’t like pants because they have never fit me properly. To get them to fit my hips the waist is always way too big or too low. Solution — make my own! The plan is to make 1930s/1940s wide-legged trousers. They tend to be the most flattering to curvy figures. For my first pair, I may go with an indie pattern or use the one in the Gertie book. I do plan to self-draft trousers, but for the first one, I make go that way.

When it come to knitting, I’m not too concerned because I mostly knit from the patterns from the 1930s to the 1950s. That said, I really want to focus in on themes and I already have a solid plan! AND, I have a few patterns I am creating myself and hope to have them ready in the first half of the year.

A pledge I have made for the blog is to write-up more blog posts about my own makes and with many more photos of those garments. There is something empowering about making your own garments and I want to share it with you all!

As I said earlier, I am really excited about my pledge this year!

What are your pledges for 2019?

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, free knitting pattern, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, sew-a-long, sewing, Uncategorized, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage sewing

December Beret-a-long!

The beret has been an accessory for centuries but became a fashion staple when made popular in the 1920s by sassy actresses such as Clara Bow, Louise Brooks, Marlene Dietrich, Carol Lombard, and Marion Davies. It continued to be popular as each decade of fashion changed and it is a popular quick knit, crochet or sew when you need to add a little something extra to your wardrobe!

The beret is versatile and can be worn with short hair or long hair. It can be worn all year long. It can be knit, crocheted or sewn! It really is the perfect fashion accessory. For the entire month of December, we will be doing a Beret-a-long in conjunction with the ongoing Accessory-a-long! You can knit, crochet or sew your beret!

 

 



To be part of our Beret-a-long, please join our Facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintagewips/. If you aren’t on Facebook, you can still join in the fun via Instagram!

If you make a beret, please use the hashtags #beretalong #killerkitschknitalong #killerkitschsewalong and please tag @killerkitsch13 (Instagram).

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, free knitting pattern, knitting, knitting community, Uncategorized, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns

November Knit-a-longs!

Hello! For the month of November we will be doing TWO KALs! All of the details are below!

Raise your hand if you’ve started knitting your Xmas Jumpers!!! If not, don’t worry, we have the perfect knit-a-long for you! For the month of November we will be knitting Andi Satterlund’s Julgran Jumper! This jumper is knitted in worsted weight and will be a fast knit! We will begin on November 1st and have an end date of November 30th, BUT don’t worry, if you don’t think you can finish it by then, please still do the KAL. It will be a lot of fun!

Andi has very generously provided us with a discount code for the pattern. To receive the code and to join the KAL, please go to our Facebook group! https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintageWIPs/

Andi is super excited that we are doing a KAL for her sweater! I hope you are as well!

The KAL will be from November 1st to November 30th and as with all other KALs and SALs, if you post on Instagram please tag @killerkitsch13 @andisatt and use hashtags #killerkitschknitalong#andisatt and #julgranalong.

For some of us the colder weather is coming and with the chilly air and snowflakes we need fall and winter accessories! It’s also time to start your Xmas gifts and what better gift than a handmade accessory!!! For these reasons and sometimes you just need a quick fun knit, we’ve decided to have an accessory-a-long!

The accessory-a-long will run from November 1st to February 28th! It can be a pattern in our .pdf document or one of your own favourite patterns! If you have any patterns that you want to add to accessory-a-long, please send me a .pdf or jpg files and will add them. 

As with all other KALs and SALs, if you post on Instagram please tag @killerkitsch13 and use hashtags #killerkitschknitalong #accessoryalong

Thank you to Erica and Beth for providing patterns for this KAL!

Since we are doing a KAL, we won’t be doing a SAL in November. We will continue with SALs in December.

1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, free knitting pattern, knit-a-long, knitting, knitting community, Uncategorized, vintage, Vintage Community, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns, vintage life, vintage pattern, vintage reproduction, vintage style

Schiaparelli Bowknot Sweater Knit-a-long

Let’s get all tied up with our bowtie-a-long. See what I did there… all tied up. Bowtie… Ok. Let’s move along.

For our October to December knit-a-long let’s do a bowtie-a-long. We will have two patterns available for this knit-a-long. The first is the Bow-tie Spencer and the second pattern is an updated version of the Elsa Schiaparelli Bowknot sweater. The pattern was re-created and by knitwear designer Lisa Stockebrand (https://www.ravelry.com/designers/lisa-stockebrand). It is a free Ravelry pattern, but for ease, I have put a .pdf pattern in the files area of our Killer Kitsch Vintage Knit-a-long Facebook Group. Both patterns will be available there.

The Elsa Schiaparelli Bowknot sweater is from her 1927 collection. It is beyond stunning!

If you want to learn more about Elsa Schiaparelli and her designs, this is a great blog to start with. https://blog.pattern-vault.com/2014/01/22/schiaparelli-patterns-part-1/ or the official website. http://www.schiaparelli.com/fr/maison-schiaparelli/l-histoire-de-la-maison/#annees20

I am excited to see what you come up with! I think these are perfect Christmas/Yule jumpers!

To join our October to December KAL and any of our other KALs, please join our Facebook group. Killer Kitsch Vintage Knit-a-long — https://www.facebook.com/groups/killerkitschvintageknitalong/

If you post your KAL photos on Instagram please tag me at @killerkitsch13 and use tags #killerkitschknitalong and #bowtiealong.