Tag: draft at home systems

Welcome to Part 2b of our adventure. In this part we will draft the sloper front piece. Now that you have had practice with just the bodice sloper for the back piece, this will be a lot easier to understand!

Ok? Ready? Yeah! Let’s get to making that dress sloper!

The Steps:

Front of Foundation

Place the Chart on the paper with the long straight edge toward you, and the right-hand edge on the edge of the paper.

For these dots, you won’t be moving the template around, please try your best to keep it in the same spot. In the images, I have the pencil pointing at the dot you should be making.

Now make the following dots (steps below in photos):

Dot 1 (neck measurement)
Arrow B or C (see note on bust measurements)
Dot A arrow
Dot 2 (shoulder measurement)
Dot 3 (bust measurement)

Make sure to note, which dot is which. Knowing where they are, will be important and help you out when you make the pattern pieces! Once you have created the above dots, you will now be moving the template around to make the rest of the lines and curves.

Neck measurement (Dot 1)

Arrow B (edge of chart. For Bust measurement up to 42″ – for bust measurements over 43″ make a dot at C arrow)

• 

Dot A arrow

Shoulder measurement (Dot 2)

Bust measurement (Dot 3)

Draw a dotted line from Dot 1 to Dot B (or C – if Dot C the line must be continued for 1 1/2″ longer). Then draw a straight line to the required length. This is the Front Centre Line.

• 

• 

• 

• 

Draw a dotted Shoulder line from Dot A to Dot 2. (bust 40″+ make a dot 1/2″ to the left of Dot 2 to allow for Dart (as shown in Diagram (Foundation Draftings with Instructions)))

• 

Draw Neck Curve. Place arrow F on Dot 1 and make a dotted line round the curve to A.

• 

• 

Draw Armhole Curve.

(Bust 24″-42″) turn the Chart over to the back with the long straight edge to your left, and place it to Dot 3, the Armhole arrow corresponding to the bust measurement required. Draw a line from Dot 3 to Dot 2.

(Bust 43″+) place 43″ to 48″ arrow to Dot 3, the Blue Curve touching Dot 2. Draw curve from Dot 2 to Broad Arrow, then turn chart over to the front side and place Broad Arrow to the end of the line already drawn. Complete drawing the curve to Dot 3.

• 

• 

Don’t move the ruler/guide! For all sizes measure 3/8″ in front of Broad Arrow and make a dot. Place Broad Arrow to this dot and draw curve to end at shoulder line. Then turn the Chart over, place Broad Arrow to the end of line already made and curve to Dot 3. This is now your Armhole Curve.

• 

Draw the Underarm. Draw a dotted line from Dot 3 to Dot 4 (the original dot, to the left of Dot 5). Then measure inwards 1″ and mark as Dot 5. Draw a straight line from Dot 3 to Dot 5. Continue the underarm to the required length.

• 

• 

Shoulder dart, follow the measurements on the Diagram. (Foundation Draftings with Instructions). Do the same for the final neck measurement.

• 

• 

• 

• 

Now you have your back and front bodice slopers!

In Part 2c, we will use the bodice sloper to create a dress bodice pattern pieces!

Welcome to Part 2 of our adventure. If you have read Part 1, you will have your tools assembled and ready to go. If you haven’t read it, please go ahead and do that before reading the rest of this post. There are several tools that you will need in order to make your sloper.

Ok? Ready? Yeah! Let’s get to making that sloper!

Taking Measurements

As mentioned in Part 1, you will need the Foundations of Drafting with Instructions document in order to create you sloper. The sloper is required to make the garments in the Haslam catalogues. Trust me, once you have your sloper made, you will be off to the races! The catalogue/magazine for Haslam are chock full of amazing garments to make!

The first thing you will need to do, before creating a sloper is take your measurements. There are clear and concise instructions on what measurements you will need and how to take and calculate them. It is very important that you take all of the measurements.

The beauty of a pdf is if your measurements change over time or you want to create a sloper for someone else, all you need to do is print off the measurement page again.

Once you have completed calculating your measurements, you are ready to make your sloper.

{you will need someone to help you take the shoulder measurements}

Making Your Sloper

For this post, I am going to show you how to create a sloper bodice back piece only. In Part 2a, I will show you how to make the sloper bodice front piece. I thought that it would be less overwhelming to break the creation of the sloper into two pieces. There are quite a few steps and I know for myself personally, when I am learning something, if I digest it in small pieces, I am less likely to get frustrated.

*The reason I’m creating a bodice sloper rather than a full dress sloper, is I tend to make a lot of gathered skirt dresses. Personally, I find it easier to work with just a bodice piece in those circumstance. That said, I will be creating a full dress sloper in a future YouTube video! (you can subscribe here for future content) If you want to continue on and complete the full dress sloper, go for it!*

Tip 1: You will need to punch holes on the ruler/template for your measurements.
Tip 2: I strongly suggest using a sharp/pointed pencil and a softer lead for drawing your lines.
Tip 3: Use poster board/bristol board to create your sloper. It is a sturdier material and you will be able to use it over and over again. I also pasted my ruler/template to poster board/bristol board.
Tip 4: For the creation of the initial dots, you don’t want your ruler to move. You may want to put pattern weights on it.

If you have any questions about the instructions or suggestions, please leave them in the comments below.

The Steps:

Back of Foundation (dress bodice)

Place the Chart on the paper with the long straight edge toward you, and the left-hand edge on the edge of the paper.

For these dots, you won’t be moving the template around, please try your best to keep it in the same spot. In the images, I have the pencil pointing at the dot you should be making.

Now make the following dots (steps below in photos):

Dot A
Dot B
Dot 1 (neck measurement)
Dot 2 (shoulder measurement)
Dot 3 (bust measurement)

Make sure to note, which dot is which. Knowing where they are, will be important and help you out when you make the pattern pieces! Once you have created the above dots, you will now be moving the template around to make the rest of the lines and curves.

Dot A

Dot B

Neck measurement (Dot 1)

Shoulder measurement (Dot 2)

Bust Measurement (Dot 3)

Now that you have made your initial dots, you are going to start drawing some lines and curves using your template.

Draw a straight line from Dot A to Dot B (this is your Back Centre Line)

Draw the Shoulder line from Dot 1 to Dot 2.

Draw the neck curve. To do this turn the chart over to the front side and place the Curved arrow on Dot 1 and draw to Dot A.

• 

• 

Draw the armhole curve. Place arrow F on the Dot 3 (Bust), with the blue curve of the Chart on your left and draw to Dot 2. (If your bust is 40″+ use Arrow H on Dot 3 and draw to Dot 2)

• 

• 

• 

Mark the 1/2″ Shoulder raise and 1/4″ extension at Dot 2 and draw the lines as show in the diagram (Foundation Draftings with Instructions).

• 

• 

At this point (since we now have an armhole), I measure from the bottom of the armhole to my natural waist. (in my case 7″). I then draw a dotted line down. Using this, I continue the line for the Back Centre Line (vertically) to match. I then draw a line horizontally to connect them. If you are doing a full dress sloper, you don’t do this.

Draw the underarm. Draw a dotted line from Dot 3 to Dot 4. Then mark the length. Now measure 1″ inwards and make Dot 5. Draw a straight line from Dot 3 to Dot 5.

• 

Then draw a line from Dot 5 to the Centre Back line. (This is where your natural waist will be.)

You have now drawn your back bodice sloper! As mentioned above, I will show you in Part 2a, how to make the front sloper.

Please let me know if this was helpful, or if you have questions!

For as long as I can remember, I’ve been interested in draft-at-home systems and mostly intrigued with the Haslam System of Dresscutting. Each and every time I go into a vintage store or thrift shop, I’m always on the outlook for books.

A few years ago, I bought the ruler, foundation document and a booklet with patterns, with the plan to try to figure out how the Haslam system works. After reading through the documentation, I knew I was going to need to see a tutorial of some sort to figure out how it all worked… yet, I couldn’t find any. Recently, I have found a couple YouTube channels and a blog that has made efforts to explain how to use the system, but I feel that there is still information missing and this is why I’ve decided to create a four part series.

The four part series will include steps to use the system, resources and the sewing project I’ve chosen. Hopefully, it will help those also interested. If there is anything you think is missing from the series, please let me know.

Over the next four weeks, I will be posting one series part each week. This is the first one!

Once I am done this blog series, I will do an additional post for a blouse sew-a-long we will be hosting in our Discord Community.

Enjoy!

What is Haslam System of Dresscutting

The Haslam System of Dresscutting is a draft-at-home system, that allows you to create your own sewing patterns using you own body measurements. You can also use the pattern to create different sizes as well as tailor the pattern to fit your body type. This is achieved by creating a sloper and pattern pieces. The system was devised by Miss Grace Haslam and was an original home business that eventually has Miss Haslam travelling all over the country teaching her method of dressmaking.

Here is an article about Miss Haslam and her Dresscutting System. https://www.theboltonnews.co.uk/news/10772216.history-of-the-haslam-sewing-system/

What you will need to get started

Template and Foundation Tools

• You will need both of these tools to draft your patterns. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/258854147/haslam-system-of-dresscutting-pattern?ref=shop_home_active_16&pro=1
• Paper for drafting – I recommend you get something a little more sturdy than tissue paper for this. Some sewists like to use a stronger paper like packing paper. It’s what I use when I draft my own patterns.
• Pencil and eraser
• Paper scissors
• Glue and bristol board (if you want to make a sturdy, reusable template/ruler

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Where to buy patterns

• My Vintage Wish – https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/MyVintageWish?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=449246396&section_id=16153240
• Couture Vintage France – https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CoutureVintageFrance?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=1019110077
• Mrs. Depew – https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/Mrsdepew?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=97183195&search_query=haslam
• Fleureve Vintage https://www.etsy.com/fr/shop/fleurevevintage?section_id=33684410

Resources

Blogs

• Laura Mae Designs – http://www.lauramaedesigns.com/2019/03/the-haslam-system-of-dresscutting.html
• Musings of a Craft Enthusiast – https://musingsofacraftenthusiast.com/category/haslam-dresscutting/

YouTube

Atelier Limonova has a few videos on her Haslam System journey. I’ve been following along, you should too!

Nora Murrell is also going on a Haslam System journey on YouTube.

I haven’t had a chance to watch these videos yet, but this is Leoneza Nica’s journey.

Facebook

Haslam Support Group – https://www.facebook.com/groups/2350029785241188

In part 2 we will talk about how to draft your sloper and pattern pieces using the tools I’ve talked about above. If you aren’t already, please follow me on Instagram as I will be providing mini updates there as well.